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Ok I read about it in the Oil section. Seems like everyone has a opinion on what to use. I have always used HD primary oil. I have 87 FLHTC with a stock clutch. I replaced the disks about 5000 miles ago. What would be my best choice for a primary fluid?
In my bike, I recently changed to Mobil 1 ATF in the primary and Mobil SHC 630 in the transmission. It's like new, only smoother. Even Clunks a lot less. In the past, that is, for the prior 75K miles and 23 years, I always used HD primary fluid and HD transmission fluid. HD primary fluid is now unobtainium, so I changed.
I had a case of primary fluid. Have enough to do one more change. I don't go to the dealer much and have just recently joind here. I didn't know they don't sell it anymore. Hess I have been doing the same thing only for the last 78,000 miles and 22 yrs. I use Belray trans. I will try the M 1 next time change. Thanks for the help.
When I switched to a high performance extra plate clutch kit to better handle the torque of the 113" motor, "Type F" automatic transmission fluid seemed to work a little better finding neutral. The Energy One FAQ does warn "No Dextron" because it has slipping adjacencies. B&M trick shift works very well, but I could not find that at the local auto parts store. When I was using the stock clutch setup it seemed to work fine using the Harley primary oil, but the "Type F " automatic transmission fluid is cheaper and can be purchased at a local car store so I think I will keep using that.
On the other hand, when the weather gets bad and you are stuck inside, nothing helps pass the time more than a good, heated discussion about various brands of oil.
HD primary fluid (that they no longer offer) was merely hydraulic fluid, type R&O. Works well, as does ATF. Really, most anything other than gear oil will work, but stick with ATF or hydraulic fluid for longevity of the clutch discs and heat removal from the stator.
i have used the harley primary fluid, 10 w30, 10w40 motor oil and atf type f in my 85 flht and i couldn't detect any difference in any of them. it still has the original chain, clutch discs and tensioner shoe. about 90k miles.
I use 10W40 (cheapest and easiest), but have used the H-D primary in the past. You can use ATF, etc... Stay away from anything with "energy conservative" on bottle label. They may have additivies that might cause slippage.
Type F if your looking for a hard hookup if your drag racing or run real hard most of the time. I use Type F in the 96 Softail as the motor is farily worked over.
I ran Dexron II in the 96 FLHT-- no problems with slippage at all, the hookup was softer than Type F but never any slippage, and the shift points were smooth.
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