Thinking about adding forward controls to FXR
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,936
Likes: 20
From: Driftless Area
I have a 90 fxrs with f/c, they are the same thing you can buy from j&p, They claim american engineered, I cut the shift linkage off and moved it forward about a inch and a half. I couldn't understand having to take your foot off the peg to shift, so I modified to suit, easy to do.
Novice
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 17
Likes: 2
From: Wisconsin
Forward Controls From KC Int
TIPS: 1) Drill the brake rod clevis pin cotter pin hole a little bigger to fit a stronger/larger diameter cotter pin than the tiny one that comes in the kit. 2) You will likely need to drill the shift shaft linkage attachment 1/4" hole larger to fit your shift linkage heim joint 5/16" stud. (You must remove & reuse your existing joints that are not supplied in the kit.) 3) You will likely need to "stretch" your existing brake return spring about an inch for the extra weight of the kit brake pedal. (The spring that's in the rubber boot where the brake rod goes into the rear brake master.) 4) I bought and needed to slightly modify to install an aftermarket Harley-type chrome brake pedal pad, which makes for a nice finishing touch! 5) I recommend buying/installing 6 3/8" chrome or stainless flat washers for the peg shafts and main brackets mounting bolts. (Bolt, lock washer, flat washer then screw it in.) Reason being just lock washers against the chrome parts = gouging & rust. I also bought 6 chrome lock washers as the ones in the kit are more like 7/16" than 3/8", too big. You can get all this stuff at your alternate Harley parts shop (the local hardware store!) A drop of blue Loctite on all the fasteners is a good idea too. 6) Don't forget to angle the pegs rearward to fold vs break if the bike should happen to tip or fall... 7) Grease the brake and shifter shafts & holes during assembly. The shafts ride on plastic bushings in the bracket holes, not the best but should last quite awhile if they’re kept greased. Haven’t done it yet but I plan on drilling the bracket shaft tubes and installing grease fittings in the near future. That’s about it I think...
If you have any questions or you’d like a few installed pics, just send me your email to jreinders_99@yahoo.com.
Good luck and Ol' Biker says get out in the wind!
Thread Starter
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,646
Likes: 40
From: Midtown Tulsa
FYI I too bought and recently installed a set of these controls on my 84 FXR. Great quality & value for the money IMO, they look and work good too! Nothing more than a blow-up schematic for installation instructions is included but overall this is a pretty simple and straightforward installation and adjustment. However, keeping in mind these aren’t $600 or more high-end controls, the following tips from my own installation may be of some value to you when you install your own?
TIPS: 1) Drill the brake rod clevis pin cotter pin hole a little bigger to fit a stronger/larger diameter cotter pin than the tiny one that comes in the kit. 2) You will likely need to drill the shift shaft linkage attachment 1/4" hole larger to fit your shift linkage heim joint 5/16" stud. (You must remove & reuse your existing joints that are not supplied in the kit.) 3) You will likely need to "stretch" your existing brake return spring about an inch for the extra weight of the kit brake pedal. (The spring that's in the rubber boot where the brake rod goes into the rear brake master.) 4) I bought and needed to slightly modify to install an aftermarket Harley-type chrome brake pedal pad, which makes for a nice finishing touch! 5) I recommend buying/installing 6 3/8" chrome or stainless flat washers for the peg shafts and main brackets mounting bolts. (Bolt, lock washer, flat washer then screw it in.) Reason being just lock washers against the chrome parts = gouging & rust. I also bought 6 chrome lock washers as the ones in the kit are more like 7/16" than 3/8", too big. You can get all this stuff at your alternate Harley parts shop (the local hardware store!) A drop of blue Loctite on all the fasteners is a good idea too. 6) Don't forget to angle the pegs rearward to fold vs break if the bike should happen to tip or fall... 7) Grease the brake and shifter shafts & holes during assembly. The shafts ride on plastic bushings in the bracket holes, not the best but should last quite awhile if they’re kept greased. Haven’t done it yet but I plan on drilling the bracket shaft tubes and installing grease fittings in the near future. That’s about it I think...
If you have any questions or you’d like a few installed pics, just send me your email to jreinders_99@yahoo.com.
Good luck and Ol' Biker says get out in the wind!
TIPS: 1) Drill the brake rod clevis pin cotter pin hole a little bigger to fit a stronger/larger diameter cotter pin than the tiny one that comes in the kit. 2) You will likely need to drill the shift shaft linkage attachment 1/4" hole larger to fit your shift linkage heim joint 5/16" stud. (You must remove & reuse your existing joints that are not supplied in the kit.) 3) You will likely need to "stretch" your existing brake return spring about an inch for the extra weight of the kit brake pedal. (The spring that's in the rubber boot where the brake rod goes into the rear brake master.) 4) I bought and needed to slightly modify to install an aftermarket Harley-type chrome brake pedal pad, which makes for a nice finishing touch! 5) I recommend buying/installing 6 3/8" chrome or stainless flat washers for the peg shafts and main brackets mounting bolts. (Bolt, lock washer, flat washer then screw it in.) Reason being just lock washers against the chrome parts = gouging & rust. I also bought 6 chrome lock washers as the ones in the kit are more like 7/16" than 3/8", too big. You can get all this stuff at your alternate Harley parts shop (the local hardware store!) A drop of blue Loctite on all the fasteners is a good idea too. 6) Don't forget to angle the pegs rearward to fold vs break if the bike should happen to tip or fall... 7) Grease the brake and shifter shafts & holes during assembly. The shafts ride on plastic bushings in the bracket holes, not the best but should last quite awhile if they’re kept greased. Haven’t done it yet but I plan on drilling the bracket shaft tubes and installing grease fittings in the near future. That’s about it I think...
If you have any questions or you’d like a few installed pics, just send me your email to jreinders_99@yahoo.com.
Good luck and Ol' Biker says get out in the wind!
Thread Starter
|
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,646
Likes: 40
From: Midtown Tulsa
Geez, I don't mean to bitch about my job, but it is really infringing on me getting these forwards installed....arrrghhh. Need some time!
Okay, I'm done with my rant.
Oh, and I bought a used Thunderheader off of Craigslist this week. It is for an Evo Softail, but I'm going to make it work!
Okay, I'm done with my rant.
Oh, and I bought a used Thunderheader off of Craigslist this week. It is for an Evo Softail, but I'm going to make it work!
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