Thanks to all for advice on torque settings. Went with the James reccomendations as I presume they know best for their products.

Torqued up to 42 ft/lbs, as I thought.

Re checked torques with a friends good quilty wrench, (mine was a Japenese cheepie) and am getting a reading of 5 ft/lbs over, ie 47 ft/lbs.

Question,
1. Leave alone? (will it make any difference?)

2. Ease off and re-torque?
or
3. Fit new base and head gaskets.?

One other thing. Ev27 arrived, will I have to re jet S&S super E or just re-tune?

Bike is a 1986 FLST.

Thanks

Tony.

 

I'd just leave it alone if its 5 lbs over thats not much differnce.

 

We do 42lbs if the compression is stock and bump it up if the compression is above 10-1. We find it helps prevent some base/head gasket problems when first started. Most torque wrenches vary somewhat, that's why we have the snap-on guy check ours from time to time. Hope this helps.

 

Thanks for input.
Miacycles, does that mean, like Ridemywg, you would leave well enough alone?

Also, any thoughts on carb?

Thanks
Tony.

 

Was the bike still cold when you rechecked the torque?

More important to torque in sequence, in small increments until you reach your desired torque, than it is to be exactly on the number.
But I sure do like to hit that exact number!

In your case I'd likely leave it alone and cuss myself for a few days.
(and hope for the studs to not pull out of the case).

 

Hate to say this but I think you may be overthinking on this job. Think it, do it and drive it. I am not trying to be rude but when you go back I can only assume you would need to actual get the bolt turning some more to see were you are. I seriously doubt few torque wrenches are very close. Were I work we build nuclear submarines and we have a calibration lab. One of the torque wrenches that fail quite often to pass is a very popular name brand here. They slice them up on a abrasive chop saw if they fail after adjustments are tried. Do not get me wrong here. I'm only talking about a few %. They would be perfectly fine on a Harley as is.

 

yes, you should be fine. Stock or aftermarket on the carb????

 

Thanks John. will leave all alone and hope studs/threads do not give trouble later.
Carb is an S&S super E.
Only other mods are Scremin Eagle ign module and straight thru porker pipes which I plan to change to original ones as a pal had them.
Am trying to get bike back to stock,(appearance wise), as much as possible.
Only reason changing cam is that I am told it will make a nice difference, which I hope it will as bike was running well before.
Appreciate input.
Tony.

 

The S&S Super E has been used by many with good results, it is some what dated but fairly simple to tune and because it has been around so long many mechanics are familiar with it. That being said, like all butterfly carbs on a V-Twin there is a sag in the torque curve. You can tune it up or down the RPM range, but it will still be there. Slide carbs like the Mikuni have no sag if properly tuned and in most applications there is a power gain shown and felt. Additionally you can use a stock type air cleaner which would allow you the stock appearance you are after.
The stock CV properly set up is no slouch either, and can be picked up reasonably.

 

you'll probably have to re-jet but there pretty simple to work on.