Ask Mac about those pipes. He has 'em on his Twinkie barge and when they dyno-tuned his bike after the 98" engine kit, the builder said they weren't the right pipes because of no crossover which means a torque loss in the bottom to mid-range.

 

Yeah, I was wondering about the affect of no crossover. But they sure do look clean.

 

Good to know!

 

Andrews EV27 with K&N Filter V&H dresser duals with modified stock slip ons. Stock ignition but updated carb. 131k miles with no teardown and still runs like it did when new.


EVOs rock !!!!



Bubba

 

Is it worth the money to replace my stock ignition with a SE? Right now I have a stock motor (I'm guessing) with an S&S shorty G and SE slip ons. I plan on putting a cam in it in the near future after I chop down that money tree.

 

Nice looking bike!

The S&S 'G' is a big carb made for big cubic inch motors. Personally I think you'd do better with the 'E' on a stock 80" EVO. JMO. As far as cam selection, do some research and figure out what sort of riding you do 'most of the time'. Various Cam MFG's make various grinds that bring on the power at different rpms. I like my Andrews EV27 as it's got a fairly broad torque range. Once you swap into an aftermarket cam, you'll wonder why you hadn't done it years ago. It's that much of an improvement when combined with a performance air cleaner, pipes, and a good tuned carb. Smile factor++++.

One benefit of an aftermarket ignition is the ability to go 'single fire' if you chose. You'll need dual coils to do this. A single fire ignition helps somewhat with the idle. And has other benefits, that you might not be able to realize depending on how crazy you go with the motor mods. I looked into it, but it wasn't worth the extra money for my bike. And there is nothing wrong with dual fire on a stock or mildly modified bike. The SE module doesn't have single fire capability, but it is a good add-on for a reasonable price. One of the benefits to the aftermarket or SE is that it offers a better spark advance curve and also raises the stock rpm limiter which I believe is set at around 5200 rpms. My Dyna2000 has single fire capability and a static timing light built into it, and the newer models allow for 'downloads' of different curves. Check out the various mfg's: Crane, Dyna, etc. All offer good stuff IMO.

 

Hello,
A SE ignition coil have the same voltage that the stock ignition coil... tested in a "dyno" because of that is a waste of money...the only diference is the "color"!

 

The S&S 'G' is a big carb made for big cubic inch motors.

I know, my brother is a mechanic and got me the carb at a discount when I first bought the bike. It runs great and my gas mileage is right on so I see no need to replace it, plus it gives me incentive to go bigger if I could just convience my wallet of that. I read something on the web about the igintion and it made sence to me. I was just wondering in anyone had done it and could give me personal feedback. Here's what I saw on the web





"Ignition
The ignition on a stock Harley is calibrated for EPA emission testing. In the real world, the stock ignition causes hard starting, poor low end response, back firing, and probably cancer and heart disease. The single biggest improvement you can make to a Harley, in my opinion, is to replace the ignition.

The Harley ignition is electronic. This means that attached to the end of the crankshaft, there's a little magnet. A small coil of wire picks up when the magnet sweeps by. Nearby, there's a little computer system, which looks at the pulses coming in from the coil and decides when the ignition should fire.

At low rpm, the spark plugs are to fire just a little bit before the pistons get to top dead center. As the rpm increases, the spark plugs must fire more and more ahead of the pistons reaching top dead center. This is because the flame front of the burning fuel in the combustion chamber takes a little time to work its way across the cylinder. Since this flame propagation time does not change, as the engine runs faster and faster the spark must come earlier and earlier so as to have the fuel completely burned when the piston is at the top of the cylinder.

Making the spark plugs fire earlier and earlier is called spark advance. The computer module, also known as the ignition module, has built into it a table: for various rpm, the table tells the computer how much to advance the spark. This table is called the ignition map or advance map. On some vehicles (but not Harleys) this map is built into a separate, replaceable chip; replacement chips are called power chips. Also, on fuel injected vehicles (such as Harley's '95 FLHTCI), there is another table in the chip which tells the computer when to fire the fuel injectors.

The Harley ignition map was designed to mollify EPA officials. From a rider's point of view, it's junk. Unfortunately, since the chip is sealed into the computer module, we have to throw away the entire computer system and replace it with a new one. Fortunately, computer modules are cheap these days. A new ignition module costs $100 to $250, depending on the brand and the options (sorry, no color monitors available).

There are any number of fine ignitions available. The Screamin' Eagle ignition module just plugs in: installation takes less than ten minutes and requires only screwdrivers. It costs about $100 and will fix all of the above listed problems.

For another $50, you can get the Screamin' Eagle ignition coils. These are not very important unless you're planning to run your engine above 5,000 rpm frequently.

For more money and more work, you can also get a fine ignition system from Dyna, Accell, Jacobs, CompuFire, or MC Power Arc.

Some of these ignition system are "single fire", and some are "dual fire". Dual fire ignition systems, like the Harley systems, use one coil for both cylinders and fire both spark plugs at the same time. This means one cylinder is getting a spark while it is about half way through compression. This sounds really bad, but actually it's no big deal: the mixture is not compressed enough to light up, so not much happens.

Single fire ignition systems have two coils - one for each cylinder - and fire each spark plug independently. Of course, this is just better. However, it's more expensive, and you have to find places to hide two coils. A single fire ignition will improve your idle and make your engine r

 

How come theres no mention of a starter in this post?

 

I have no problems with the Super E at altitude. At most, it's a 1/8th turn adjustment to the idle mixture screw one time, change it back when you're getting close to home.

Now, Dr.Linda's Sporty, that has barometric correction enabled in the EFI, plus closed loop off the oxygen sensor, unlike all HD EFI systems up until the more recent twinkie ones. So, up, down, doesn't matter at all.