Top end question
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,268
Likes: 507
From: Florida
It could be alot of things. Thats why I said things should be checked abit further. Trouble shooting a problem is the biggest part of a repair.
A for instance. Brake pedal slop at the bushing. Shifter slop at the bushing. Certain rpm ranges will bring on some strange goings on. Hope OP finds out the problem but to arbitrarily assume one thing over another without checking thoroughly is just a waste of money.
And not to be a smarta$$, if I chased every little noise mine makes at different times I'd never be on it going places.
A for instance. Brake pedal slop at the bushing. Shifter slop at the bushing. Certain rpm ranges will bring on some strange goings on. Hope OP finds out the problem but to arbitrarily assume one thing over another without checking thoroughly is just a waste of money.
And not to be a smarta$$, if I chased every little noise mine makes at different times I'd never be on it going places.
Last edited by V-Twins & Bowties; May 2, 2011 at 11:46 AM.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 359
Likes: 2
From: central Mississippi
Thanks for the info guys. I already bought a new set of quick install screamin eagle pushrods, so I'll start with replacing those. Got another question. I don't know the history of this bike, but I know it has adjustable push rods in it. The ones I just purchared have two ways of adjusting them: One for Hydraulic tappets, the other for Solid. How do I know which ones I've got?????
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,202
Likes: 3,089
From: NW AR
You almost certainly have hydraulic lifters. Virtually no one run solids in an evo, except in extreme HP builds (very radical cams). Install the push rods per the hydraulic instructions. Wait after the first (and each) one is in and adjusted for the lifter to pump down so you can spin the push rod with your fingers. If it bleeds down, it's hydraulic.
The noise could be a lifter going bad. It's certainly time. They only seem to last about 50-75K miles.
The noise could be a lifter going bad. It's certainly time. They only seem to last about 50-75K miles.
Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,641
Likes: 4
From: south of Boston
you start with what might be the obvious, and you go from there.... my rule of thumb
he said he had top end noise, and discovered his pushrods seemed bent
....buying a set of new pushrods and installing them isn't a huge investment in time or money to start narrowing things down, as i'm sure 95 has now realized.... because now, he's fixed his problem
=-)
if he had NOT done so, and started to dig deeper....he'd have found himself with his entire top end down, and possibly lost as to what the problem might have been
start simple, and tackle what appears to be obvious...ALWAYS
he said he had top end noise, and discovered his pushrods seemed bent
....buying a set of new pushrods and installing them isn't a huge investment in time or money to start narrowing things down, as i'm sure 95 has now realized.... because now, he's fixed his problem
=-)
if he had NOT done so, and started to dig deeper....he'd have found himself with his entire top end down, and possibly lost as to what the problem might have been
start simple, and tackle what appears to be obvious...ALWAYS
3rd Gear
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Calgary
just going through something like this, had a clatter in one of the pushrods, turned out to be andrews chromeoly and I think just were a little out of adjust at warm temps. Re-adjusted them and turned engine over by hand, and heard a creaking and bent the rear exhaust pushrod. Figured I must have had a little much on it, So, started again with aluminum ez install andrews, managed to bend one with two of us being real careful on the intall.
going to pull of rocker boxes and see what going on.
it was the simplest thing to try, and turns out it cost me but sometimes I guess it's better to get right into it. Get the parts after you know what you need. Can't forecast everything when you bought someone else's worked over bike.
going to pull of rocker boxes and see what going on.
it was the simplest thing to try, and turns out it cost me but sometimes I guess it's better to get right into it. Get the parts after you know what you need. Can't forecast everything when you bought someone else's worked over bike.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,207
Likes: 12,793
From: South Carolina
just going through something like this, had a clatter in one of the pushrods, turned out to be andrews chromeoly and I think just were a little out of adjust at warm temps. Re-adjusted them and turned engine over by hand, and heard a creaking and bent the rear exhaust pushrod. Figured I must have had a little much on it, So, started again with aluminum ez install andrews, managed to bend one with two of us being real careful on the intall.
going to pull of rocker boxes and see what going on.
going to pull of rocker boxes and see what going on.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,468
Likes: 12
From: Bluffton, South Carolina
after adjusting a pushrod you have to wait 5-15 minutes for the lifter to bleed down. You can tell when it's bled down by trying to spin the pushrod between two fingers, it should spin if it has bled down. Failure to do this will cause you to bend pushrods, but you already know that!!!! Hope this helps.
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3rd Gear
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Calgary
after adjusting a pushrod you have to wait 5-15 minutes for the lifter to bleed down. You can tell when it's bled down by trying to spin the pushrod between two fingers, it should spin if it has bled down. Failure to do this will cause you to bend pushrods, but you already know that!!!! Hope this helps.
you are right thank you
Last edited by uncle tail; May 20, 2011 at 12:43 AM.
