Just thinkin out loud here, but when the clutch release mechanism changed for the `87 model year, the clutch did not change (the early diaphragm spring type clutch, used from late `84 through `89).

That would make me think that the clutch throwout movement distance did not change between the old type and the new type.

Bama, exactly what model and year bike?

For the money your mechanic quoted, you should be able to change out the mainshaft in the transmission to the late `84 type, and install a new diaphram type clutch on your bike, and have money left over.

 

Believe the Motor is an 88? Guessing from some of the parts I have bought. It is not a newer evo due to the Starter and solenoid are seperate. The clutch is Early 84 or older, the tranny is newer. It is a hand built bike with less than 5K miles since it was built. So I am finding out everything as I go.

 

Bama, is it belt drive or chain drive (to rear wheel)?

Can you post a picture of the primary side?

 

Chain Drive, primary and wheel. Yes will post a pic in a few.

 

Here is the pic.

 

Ok let's try this again:

 

OK, just wanted to be sure of the setup. That is the early `84 configuration, a 5 speed with the old style clutch...

I don`t think the late model clutch release setup is the problem, as long as the proper length clutch pushrod is used.

Remove the right side cover and be sure the release mechanism and throwout bearing are good, a problem here can drive you crazy.

The problems you are having with the clutch dragging seems to be a typical problem with these clutches.

If you get it set up so it does not slip while running, it seems to drag.

If you get it set up so it does not drag, it will slip while running.

Make sure none of the discs or plates are warped.

Sometimes the metal discs get glazed and can be a problem because they slip, so you adjust the clutch to where it does not slip, but it drags, causing the bike to try to roll forward in gear with the clutch lever pulled in...

If the meta disks are glazed, you can lightly sandblast them (people told me that was nuts, but they didn`t laugh when they tried it and it worked).

 

Dan, that's a good point on the release. I don't know all the variations and when what changed, just that stuff changed. I also wonder if the release ramp-ball thing is working properly, worn out or even the right one if there are different ones available. Given the piece together nature of the bike, could a wrong ramp or ball set have been put in? I don't thing the ramp/ball thingies are that expensive, and it's pretty easy to get to.

Bama, the push rod doesn't move out much, but I don't know how much is the right amount. A 16th of an inch isn't much. I seem to recall mine moving more than that, but I never measured it. That would be influenced by the ramp/ball thingies and the geometry of the lever. Is it a stock HD control/lever or aftermarket? As for leaving a plate out, you could try it as a WTF, and I would just leave one out as an experiment. I would leave out the first fiber plate, the one up against the basket, but I still think the issue is on the right side.

In adjusting, you're screwing the bolt thingie all the way in or however it is done to make the cable as short as possible, loosen the nut at the hub, screw the adjuster all the way in until it contacts the pushrod, wiggle the lever a few times, back it off a RCH, tighten the nut, adjust the bolt thingie so there is just a little bit of slack at the lever, right?

 

There are two different ramp/ball setups, but the problematic 13 degree ramps were only used in early 1990 models. It's unlikely that that's the problem but since the bike is built from unknown sources I guess it wouldn't hurt to check. If the small end of the ramp nearly touches the big end you have the bad ramps, if there 3/8" or so (memory is weak here) they're ok.

BTW the bike looks pretty good, I'll bet you can get it running as well as it looks!

 

Yes Dr. Hess that is the way I have been adjusting. I will pull the right side of the box tomorrow, my throwout bearing will be here. Plus I work 8 hours tomorrow so I'll have more time. Thanks a lot. Will keep you posted.

After I Adjust the Screw and lock nut, I draw the slack out of the cable I almost run out of threads on the adjuster. I would think running that much out there would be more than 1/16" travel on the rod.