Clutch Adjusting Problem
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,201
Likes: 12,787
From: South Carolina
That would make me think that the clutch throwout movement distance did not change between the old type and the new type.
Bama, exactly what model and year bike?
For the money your mechanic quoted, you should be able to change out the mainshaft in the transmission to the late `84 type, and install a new diaphram type clutch on your bike, and have money left over.
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Jun 5, 2011 at 08:30 AM.
Thread Starter
|
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 350
Likes: 0
From: Reidsville, NC
Believe the Motor is an 88? Guessing from some of the parts I have bought. It is not a newer evo due to the Starter and solenoid are seperate. The clutch is Early 84 or older, the tranny is newer. It is a hand built bike with less than 5K miles since it was built. So I am finding out everything as I go.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,201
Likes: 12,787
From: South Carolina
OK, just wanted to be sure of the setup. That is the early `84 configuration, a 5 speed with the old style clutch...
I don`t think the late model clutch release setup is the problem, as long as the proper length clutch pushrod is used.
Remove the right side cover and be sure the release mechanism and throwout bearing are good, a problem here can drive you crazy.
The problems you are having with the clutch dragging seems to be a typical problem with these clutches.
If you get it set up so it does not slip while running, it seems to drag.
If you get it set up so it does not drag, it will slip while running.
Make sure none of the discs or plates are warped.
Sometimes the metal discs get glazed and can be a problem because they slip, so you adjust the clutch to where it does not slip, but it drags, causing the bike to try to roll forward in gear with the clutch lever pulled in...
If the meta disks are glazed, you can lightly sandblast them (people told me that was nuts, but they didn`t laugh when they tried it and it worked).
I don`t think the late model clutch release setup is the problem, as long as the proper length clutch pushrod is used.
Remove the right side cover and be sure the release mechanism and throwout bearing are good, a problem here can drive you crazy.
The problems you are having with the clutch dragging seems to be a typical problem with these clutches.
If you get it set up so it does not slip while running, it seems to drag.
If you get it set up so it does not drag, it will slip while running.
Make sure none of the discs or plates are warped.
Sometimes the metal discs get glazed and can be a problem because they slip, so you adjust the clutch to where it does not slip, but it drags, causing the bike to try to roll forward in gear with the clutch lever pulled in...
If the meta disks are glazed, you can lightly sandblast them (people told me that was nuts, but they didn`t laugh when they tried it and it worked).
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,202
Likes: 3,089
From: NW AR
Dan, that's a good point on the release. I don't know all the variations and when what changed, just that stuff changed. I also wonder if the release ramp-ball thing is working properly, worn out or even the right one if there are different ones available. Given the piece together nature of the bike, could a wrong ramp or ball set have been put in? I don't thing the ramp/ball thingies are that expensive, and it's pretty easy to get to.
Bama, the push rod doesn't move out much, but I don't know how much is the right amount. A 16th of an inch isn't much. I seem to recall mine moving more than that, but I never measured it. That would be influenced by the ramp/ball thingies and the geometry of the lever. Is it a stock HD control/lever or aftermarket? As for leaving a plate out, you could try it as a WTF, and I would just leave one out as an experiment. I would leave out the first fiber plate, the one up against the basket, but I still think the issue is on the right side.
In adjusting, you're screwing the bolt thingie all the way in or however it is done to make the cable as short as possible, loosen the nut at the hub, screw the adjuster all the way in until it contacts the pushrod, wiggle the lever a few times, back it off a RCH, tighten the nut, adjust the bolt thingie so there is just a little bit of slack at the lever, right?
Bama, the push rod doesn't move out much, but I don't know how much is the right amount. A 16th of an inch isn't much. I seem to recall mine moving more than that, but I never measured it. That would be influenced by the ramp/ball thingies and the geometry of the lever. Is it a stock HD control/lever or aftermarket? As for leaving a plate out, you could try it as a WTF, and I would just leave one out as an experiment. I would leave out the first fiber plate, the one up against the basket, but I still think the issue is on the right side.
In adjusting, you're screwing the bolt thingie all the way in or however it is done to make the cable as short as possible, loosen the nut at the hub, screw the adjuster all the way in until it contacts the pushrod, wiggle the lever a few times, back it off a RCH, tighten the nut, adjust the bolt thingie so there is just a little bit of slack at the lever, right?
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
6 Weirdest Harley-Davidsons Ever Sold to the Public
Verdad Gallardo
7 Times Harley-Davidson Chucked Tradition Out the Window
Verdad Gallardo
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Verdad Gallardo
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
Tourer
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 334
Likes: 2
There are two different ramp/ball setups, but the problematic 13 degree ramps were only used in early 1990 models. It's unlikely that that's the problem but since the bike is built from unknown sources I guess it wouldn't hurt to check. If the small end of the ramp nearly touches the big end you have the bad ramps, if there 3/8" or so (memory is weak here) they're ok.
BTW the bike looks pretty good, I'll bet you can get it running as well as it looks!
BTW the bike looks pretty good, I'll bet you can get it running as well as it looks!
Thread Starter
|
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 350
Likes: 0
From: Reidsville, NC
Yes Dr. Hess that is the way I have been adjusting. I will pull the right side of the box tomorrow, my throwout bearing will be here. Plus I work 8 hours tomorrow so I'll have more time. Thanks a lot. Will keep you posted.
After I Adjust the Screw and lock nut, I draw the slack out of the cable I almost run out of threads on the adjuster. I would think running that much out there would be more than 1/16" travel on the rod.
After I Adjust the Screw and lock nut, I draw the slack out of the cable I almost run out of threads on the adjuster. I would think running that much out there would be more than 1/16" travel on the rod.