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I am having a heck of a time with an electrical problem. I have a 97 electra glide ultra classic, I bought it with a bad stator, and decided to replace everything stator, rotor and regulator. Simple enough I thought. It is the Thunderheart 3 phase system. I can not get the voltage much past 12 volts(riding down the road looking at the gage). I have sent the regulator back to Thunderheart and they say it is good. I have sent the stator and rotor back to Thunderheart and same thing they say it is good also. I see no sparks when I connect the battery and the battery (which is also new) holds a full charge when not in use. When I switch on the ignition I do not see 12 volts on the factory gage it is around 11 volts. Running at idle it does not produce 12 volts reved to about 2000 rpms you begin to see 12 volts. Where should I be looking for whatever is dragging it down? I first though I had bad components but since the factory has checked them I guess something else is causing it.
My bike is a lot older, but I have a 32 amp system. With lights off at 2000rpm, I see a little less than 12v on the dash meter. Lights on and breaking at a light it will bottom out at 8 or less, whatever it is. You probably when to a lot of trouble sending everything back, when all it is, is a lousy metering systems on old Harleys!
I should point out that the reference to the gage voltage was riding down the road. I am using a digital volt meter in the garage. I am not getting the above 14 volt reading that you would expect at 2000 to 2500 rpms. At idle 950 rpms I am only seeing 11.5 volts. I have had the parts checked by the factory and am now exploring what could be dragging down the voltage. I have already figured out the factory gage is not very accurate, and the air temperature gage is another factory gae that makes no sense ( but that would be another thread).
I should point out that the reference to the gage voltage was riding down the road. I am using a digital volt meter in the garage. I am not getting the above 14 volt reading that you would expect at 2000 to 2500 rpms. At idle 950 rpms I am only seeing 11.5 volts. I have had the parts checked by the factory and am now exploring what could be dragging down the voltage. I have already figured out the factory gage is not very accurate, and the air temperature gage is another factory gae that makes no sense ( but that would be another thread).
14-14.5 is what you would expect, if the battery keeps its charge and the bike runs and rides OK then ignore it....a volt gauge is like an oil gauge, only good for making you paranoid.
Think about it this way.....if you rode a Dyna, which doesn't have a volt gauge, would you think there was anything wrong with the bike?
If the answer is "no" then put tape over your voltmeter and carry on riding and enjoying your bike
There is a heap of stuff on the big tourers that is not needed.....air temp gauges, volt meters, radios, oil pressure gauges, cupholders and screens.....most of them suck up electricity like a ****....chuck them all away and enjoy the freedom of riding with no input ;-)
From: Beautiful SW Missouri Ozark Mountain Country
My volt meter reads 1-1/2 volts low.
Check all your ground straps too.
Originally Posted by Spanners39
There is a heap of stuff on the big tourers that is not needed.....air temp gauges, volt meters, radios, oil pressure gauges, cupholders and screens.....most of them suck up electricity like a ****....chuck them all away and enjoy the freedom of riding with no input ;-)
Good advice to check the grounds (all of them). This may involve removing the tank and fairing front to access the wiring. Disassemble and clean all the grounds and contacts in the connectors.
I did this to my bike this weekend, and now, for the first time in three years, the starter cranks the engine with the lights on, like it's supposed to. It's amazing how all the little voltage drops in the wiring due to poor contact will affect total performance. Even my instrument lights are brighter.
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