Best gaskets on the market today IMHO are made by Cometic. About a C-note for the top end kit. From reading seems like yoyu have taken the necessary steps on top end components, but the question remains on the lower end. Heck if you have it this far down why not pull the motor, split cases and check out rods and crank pin. This is the second time down. Unless you like doing it a possible third time, now is the time to get that piece of mind knowing you have done everything to ensure the motor is up to snuff.

 

Yep you're absolutely right. Bottom end is coming out. This way I'll have a brand new 1992 Heritage Classic. It doesn't make sense not to pull it out. Too bad I didn't think of this a week ago before ordering pitons and I would go with a big bore kit. Hell, I'd probably have endless problems if I went with a big bore. Any other advice on cheap top end upgrades? I've heard different size intake/exhaust valves can add a good amount of hp. Not to mention upgraded rocker arms and shafts, valve springs, etc, or is that not necessary for a minor build like this? Keep the info coming, you guys help a lot more then the broads behind the counters at dennis kirk and mc repair shops. Thanks guys, Glenn

 

I had fun taking the top end off mine 4 or 5 times hunting noises, the crank pin was one noise I was chasing. Another was fat pushrods banging the tubes, I thought it was piston noise. I eventually stripped a rocker box bolt. Ended up just taking it to a shop and said "fix it."

 

What do you guys recommend I change inside the case? I can't afford a new crankshaft and flywheel. I figured pinion bearings and the pinion shaft? Should I order anything else while I'm in there? Mind you, this is a junk change build. Otherwise I'd through an S&S 110 in her. Thanks for the help.

 

Your throwing questions at people that love to spend other peoples money!

If you are worried about the heads, Bean at Big Boyz is the best bang for the buck and weighs in @ $450 and bolt on, Hillside and John Sachs hit a couple hundred higher but horsepower starts getting expensive and they have mastered it. Bigger valves are not needed in a basic build, rocker arm change isn't needed until 580 lift range, stock springs will live with a EV27.

You do know that it takes special equipment to set that crank with crankpin replacement? not trying to be a smarta$$, just counting pennies or hundreds with a Harley.

9.5-1 with a .030 head gasket, EV27 and the heads cleaned up by a professional is a good recipe to wake a Evo up and very safe in any conditions. 10-1 with some tuning is the cata$$ and promotes wheelies.

Just like any engine build, you need to have a good machinest or you will do it again, not a good place to skimp.

 

Someone told me .030 head gasket is too small and I should go with a .040. I recently had surgery so I have parts all over the place and I am trying to get everything together for when I'm healed. What do you think?

 

The topic of this thread parallels my own questions. To not start duplicate threads, here is my question.

Wife's 1998 Dyna Evo rear cylinder is leaking a bit of oil at the base of the casing. Would appreciate being pointed to a DIY thread & videos so I can make the repair. Bought it new for her back in '98. She won't consider another bike.

BTW, sold my Evo in 2000 to buy the 2000 Deuce. Love the Deuce and 2008 Road Glide, but still regret having sold my Evo but had to pay attention to cash flow.

If I have clear steps and explanation that I can follow, then I am confident I can do the mechanical work; I've done a lot of my own wrenching. But nothing like pulling the head and cylendar off to replace the gasket. Yes, I do have the manuals; know I might need to buy some tools. I have a good digital torque and angle wrench.

Thanks

 

I had a leaky base gasket a few years ago. Drain the oil out of the motor and let it sit a few days so it all drains, the littlest bit can sabatoge the entire thing. I then bought some high temp silicon sealant, cleaned the area around the base real good with some acetone type solvent that will rid any oil or residue, and applied the silicon. Be generous applying the silicon, work it into the cracks and crevices and what not. It worked for 4 years. A base gasket is a big, big job. I would try the silicon first and save time, money, and headaches because you will without a doubt have a heck of a time. Good luck.

 

Evo top end rebuilds are very easy to do. Use James or Cometic gaskets, use their torque figures and you won't have to worry about the angle thing.

You won't need to replace the rings (unless its an oil-burner) you will need a ring compressor or some new wrist pin circlips though.

 

If you do choose to replace the base gasket, buy an entire top end gasket kit and replace everything. You will definitely need a ring compression tool, but not the cheap kind auto zone sell, it needs to release so you can get it off the piston. I have found it easier using a hose clamp, but to each his own. Spend the extra money though and buy an entire top end gasket kit. The only reason I recommended the silicon idea is because you now have to take the tanks off, heads, cylinders, etc. It is time consuming, but where there's a will there's a way. Make sure you have a manual to tell you the proper torque specs. Its very important. Good Luck!