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Hitachi starter question.

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Old Jan 27, 2014 | 06:02 PM
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Default Hitachi starter question.

My evo is an older one that has the Hitachi starter. I have noticed that it is really struggling to start my bike and I'm sure the battery is fully charged. I checked and the battery was showing 12.5+ volts (just about 12.6 volts) and is a brand new battery.

How do you know when the Hitachi, non reduction gear, starter needs to be replaced? The starter is the original 1988 HD/Hitachi with 93,000+ miles on it.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2014 | 06:12 PM
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Not to defend your old starter, but it might benefit from all the wires and connections being taken apart and cleaned. I know someone who swears by taking the starter apart and cleaning brushes etc.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2014 | 06:15 PM
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most of the starters they sell today are china crap - that oem is a good one and it can be rebuilt / new brushes and new bearings - turn the armature smooth with some fine paper, and it does have a gear reduction but its not high speed its low speed so the motor turns slower than the newer version --

all ***** sells a Hi torque unit but its not cheap
 
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Old Jan 27, 2014 | 06:41 PM
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Hitachi is the good one -- you should have been around when the old Delcos were all the go...

Starter brushes are a wear item like brake pads and clutch plates that need replacing from time to time as the normal course of things. Like already suggested, you might as well replace the bearings while you are in there and clean up the commutator.
It should be good for another 93,000 miles.

Take a look at the Bendix gear and linkages/shafts while you are in there too.
And new solenoid contacts and disk should complete the system overhaul, along with cleaning all connections.

Whatever you do, avoid the cheap Chinese starters. Like their generators, the shafts have been known to snap clear off.
Ditto with rebuild parts for your old starter - stick with the quality US made brandname stuff.
 

Last edited by Hopper; Jan 27, 2014 at 06:44 PM.
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Old Jan 27, 2014 | 06:49 PM
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I was looking at rebuild kits, brushes, etc.. Look like the Hitachi can be rebuilt pretty cheap. I have also read that it's a good idea to get a spare solenoid as the contacts can get burned.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2014 | 11:57 PM
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Originally Posted by falconbrother
I was looking at rebuild kits, brushes, etc.. Look like the Hitachi can be rebuilt pretty cheap. I have also read that it's a good idea to get a spare solenoid as the contacts can get burned.
Lot cheaper than a new starter, for sure.
If you buy a new solenoid, put it on the bike and keep the old one for spare.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2014 | 05:00 AM
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While on the subject of starters, and a mild hijack, what is the consensus on the best starter pursuit with Engines that have been bumped up a bit?

67k miles on my bike, 1989 EVO, just received a top end refresh that included 10:1 pistons, mild cam change (EV-27) etc.

The starter sometimes kicks out before starting the engine, not often, but it's obvious that it's working harder, and sometimes doesn't like it.

Didn't have a lot of time to observe before winter hit, but if it looks like a not to be ignored problem I'm thinking that a starter rebuild/refresh might suffice.

However I'd like to hear from those that have similar engine mods to see if this is the correct approach. Thanks.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2014 | 06:01 AM
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RaSh, pop that solenoid cover off and take a look at the contacts and plunger,
a repair kit like this might help, or your local starter shop can get what you need

http://www.jpcycles.com/product/300-080

sometimes, just a new battery with the highest cca you can find will stop that kickout,
the earthx in my bagger is awesome, expensive though.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2014 | 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by RaSh

67k miles on my bike, 1989 EVO, just received a top end refresh that included 10:1 pistons, mild cam change (EV-27) etc.

.
Those engine mods should not need a stronger starter. Yes the 10 to 1 pistons require a bit more oomph to get over TDC but it's not like a stroker etc.
Not sure about the EV27 exact specs, but many performance cams give a lower cranking compression due to more valve overlap than stock.

I would be looking at some TLC for your existing starter and solenoid first - mucho cheaper.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2014 | 08:09 AM
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How do you clean the commutator? Do you use contact or MAP/mas air flow sensor cleaner?
 
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