I have a 2003 Road King with a 117" build that is pretty great but a little weak on the low end torque. It tops out at 123fp but not until 3500 rpms. It's pretty flat at 100fp up to 3000. I've been getting some feedback about the Pro Pipe that's on it as not necessarily being the best choice. It came on the bike as part of the original build. The guy that had it said the baffle was tuned for maximum flow AND maximum sound reduction and packed a bunch of fiberglass around the baffle to "quiet it down" and that the Pro Pipe was recommended for performance.

I've been reading that the Pro Pipe has an inherent flat spot low on the torque curve anyway........A couple of questions, could the extra fiberglass be hurting it even more, one other suggestion was to go with a 6" baffle. Is that a stock item, as I can find 2 V&H baffles for the Pro Pipe, one marked "standard" and the other "performance". From the pictures it looks like the performance one is just like the standard but it's actually longer and has a solid piece leading into the holed baffle section???? Is there a special 6" baffle or is that one of these or one of these cut down?

I'm thinking about switching pipes altogther and going with Rinehart true duals but I also understand that 2-into-1's are better for performance engines.

Thoughts?

Rick[/align]

 

The Pro Pipe HS series is one of the best pipes on the market for performance.....but......Get that glass out of there, it can't breath with a 117' motor. The flat low end tq could also be contributed to the cam your running, the more duration and overlap the less power on bottom end. If you have a early opening exhaust valve you will loose tons of power in the lower rpm range. If your ports are too big in the head you will loose tons of power in the lowewr rpms too.

I have a Pro Pipe HS series with the STD baffle, not modified at all, on a 113' and I got 100fp of tq at 2000rpm and at 3200 rpm it jumps up to 130fp. The Pro Pipe works, what people have to remember it's a package deal....every part has to work with or complement the other mods in the build. Again what cam are you running and what heads do you have....are these things working together or against each other.

Granted the HS series Pipe is at it's limit with a 117' build with a STD baffle. Your post says thepipe was set for max power and max quietness.......sorry that can't and won't happen, you can't have exhaust flow when it's stuffed to quiet it down.

 

Doc,

Here's the build info, it's at 10.8-1 compression:

My basic build is:

HD 4 3/8" Stroker Crank
Axtell 4 1/8 cylinders
JE Forged 20 degree pistons-reverse hemi dome
SE HTTC CNC ported heads with additional exhaust porting and machining for the JE pistons
S&S 625 geared cams
S&S Roller rockers
SE Rocker cradle
C&A Gapless rings
SE 51mm intake
S&S Super G manifold
Feuling hydraulic lifters
PC III
V&H Pro Pipe
and..........
Latus Throttle body with interchangeable venturi's.......48mm and 53mm

lots of other little goodies to go with the build.

 

Doc,

In reading your info it looks like your torque curve sounds similar to mine at about 100tq at 2000 and kicking in at around 3000. I was looking to improve my torque numbers in the 2000-3000 range but I'm beginning to think that my curve isn't too far from typical...........

 

Doc is correct. I am going to try mine out on my 117 build that should be done in a couple of weeks. I have 3 baffles for it. 2 stock and 1 performance. I plan on trying all of them out on the dyno and see how the tq curve looks with all of them. I also plan on modifying a stock baffle by drilling the holes out a bit bigger a bit at a time on the dyno to see what the reactions are. No pipe will work best for every build, but this pipe can be made to work better or worse depending on who's hands its in.

 

I don't know the timing numbers of your cam off the top of my head but I do know the HTCC CNC ported heads are the worst performance heads you can buy....sorry to say it so harshly but the ports are way too big and poorly designed for any low end response. Now that coupled up with a cam with 260*or betterduration and 55*or moreof overlap your going to have a issue in the lower rpm area that is not caused by the pipe. I'll look up the timing specs on you cam asap ..... or you can post them here if you have them.
Again not trying to bash your build.....lots and lots of people not in the know get swindled by the Dealer to use them because it says right in the SE book that these heads are for the advanced builder looking for max power.......DUH.... with the average knowledge of the techs in the dealers being what it is they depend and believe what is written....not whats proven!!

I found your cam #... the power band does come on late with this cam, it's a top end cam in other words so it suffers a bit on bottom end. A cam change like a Woods TW8 or even the TW6H with a set of headsportedfor the cam selection by a reptiable porter like Hillside, Baisley, Head Quarters, Short Block Charlie, and/or TMan I can see you yeilding 115~120tq at 2000rpm and 135~140 at 3500rpm......with the Pro Pipe. Fat Cat, Boarzilla, ThunderHeader, SuperTrapp Mega are some other really good pipes. The Rienheart tru duals will make some good power with the 117' build also.

Good Luck

 

BaggerDSM,

Let us know what you find out. It looks like the baffle in mine is a competition baffle that the guy wrapped fiberglass all around the actual baffle itself where the holes are drilled.........I just took all that out and it seems better already and definately sounds better too! I also ordered a standard baffle as Doc suggested and will try that. I'm curious to see what you think about yours.

What all did you do for your 117" build?

Rick

 

Doc,

Thanks again for the info. You'll see where I took out the fiberglass which seemed to help already. I will also try the standard baffle when I get it. A couple of questions, the picture of the standard baffle looks like it wouold actually flow more air than the competition one........it appears to be shorter overall and does not have the solid pipe leading into the drilled section? Also, I noticed on the picture of the standard baffle that it looks like it has a small section at the end where it's sized to the pipe that there is some fiberglass there. Is that needed for any reason or should I scrap that too? It sounds like for a 2-into-1 the Pro Pipe is as good as any when set up right, so I don't see any reason to switch from it to a different 2-into-1. Plus I like the look of it on my RK Classic better than several of the other ones. As for the Rinehart TD's, will they flow as much air as the Pro Pipe or would I be going backwards? I do like the look of the duals on the RK Classic better but it's no big deal.

As for the heads, are the ports just too big to keep the air velocity up or can these heads be worked for good flow? It also sounds like I would need to switch out the cams to get a stronger torque curve on the bottom end. Since I just got this bike I'll probably ride it like it is for a while before thinking of going back inside the engine. Compared to my basically stock Deuce, it's an *** kicker as is :-).

Thanks again for the help.

Rick

 

Sorry to say but those heads would be better as a boat anchor...(my opinion) If you can find some take off heads at a dealer or on Ebay pick them up for a few bucks and have a good porter set them up for your 117' and cam selection, again the TW8 would be awesome in that build. Doing this will let you spread the cost over time and not loose any riding time.

The best baffle for the low end tq is the short, closed end, with the packing at the outside end. You can remove the packing on assembly or let the exhaust pressures remove it for you in a short time....lol. I didn't know you had the comp baffle in your build now....it drops low end torque termondiously....it's for top end power only, I personally don't like them nor will I use them in my builds.

The Rienheart TruDuals are a stepped header system and it will flow more than enough for your 117', they actually over scavenge in the 2000~2500 rpm range and this is what gives it the power loss people talk about but....with the tq the 117' has I doubt you will feel any power loss in that area.

 

Again Doc is right on!!!Doc told me to uses the RH duals for a 103 i just finished. Results were spectacular. The dyno sheet does show to be a bit softer at low rpm, but its not felt at all. That baby just pulls and pulls for a little 103/tw6g/hillside modified stage 2 heads...See how the baffle tweaks work on the dyno and go from there. Maybe a TW8 like Doc said with better for the application(i.e. not anchoring boats) heads will give you even more wow factor...

For my 117, build's not set in stone yet but it will be hillside very modified heads,Woods TW9BG,Axtell 117 kit,CV51 carb with woods a/c , propipe HS, and DTT ignition.
Scott and I will also be tuning it, so we will play with the different baffles alot. Right Scott, think we can handle that at your machine shop????haha......

Hi Doc(TXCHOP here)......you're giving some great advice as usual!!!!!