Besides gasoline, is there a better product to do this? Acetone, denatured alcohol, mineral spirits, or good ole gas? I keep getting crap in my float bowl and am having carb issues so I'll swap out all the fuel lines and flush the tank for starters. Thanks.

 

Don't know if there is a 'right way' to do it, but this is how i did it.

Removed both tanks. Drained all the gas out of both using the cross over tube inlets (put gas in lawnmower). Filled the tanks with fresh water and drained again. Refilled with more fresh water and slowly let overflow out the top to let the residual gas float out. Then put about one gallon of water back in, gave the tanks a good shake and used a shop vac to empty the water and particles. Repeated this one more time. Dried the inside of the tanks with an air gun. Then cleaned the carb, including the jets, and put the whole thing back together again. Have not had a problem since then, about 1500 miles ago.

 

You don't say what kind of crap you are getting in your float bowl. Sometimes a tank that looks pretty good can start rusting on the inside. What I am going to tell you is only for rust problems. Get some muratic acid. BE VERY CAREFUL. THIS IS NASTY STUFF!!! This is cheap and can be obtained from a swimming pool supply place. With all outlets plugged, pour a cup or two of the acid in the tank. Drop in a short piece of chain. Slosh this around for a while. There is no need to be violent, you don't want to dent the tank. Pour out the contents and rinse several times with clean water. Your tank and the chain will look like like new. I have used this on car tanks and bikes.

 

The garbage found was/is black particles. Larger than rust specs. Looks like crumbles of rubber hose. I replaced the main hose, still need to do the two crossover hoses. Water to flush the tank, really. I'd hope to get it all out.

 

Sounds like the same kinda crap I found in mine. I was thinking to use water to help keep some of the particles in suspension so that the shop vac had a better chance of getting it all. Seemed to work. Don't forget to make sure to dry the inside of the tank though.

 

I agree with the acid, I just did this to clean my oil tank after Chroming, it was so full of Shi* you would not believe what came out of it besides copper flaking.

Just a few things, I would like to add! Pressure will build up in the tank from shaking it, also make sure you have plenty of cold running water going over the tank Before you take the fill plug out! Meaning where you put gas in the tank!! after that keep running water and pull one or both of the cross over plugs out!...and keep flushing...running the water over the tank will prevent any splatter from the pressure build up When you open it up to flush! I hope this helps? BUT BE CAREFUL....you will be fine if there is lots of running water...use a hose? laundry tub?

Ride Safe!

 

I agree with the acid too. After you pour out the acid, take a couple gallons of water and add about a cup of baking soda to it and stir it until it dissolves. Pour that in the tank and it will neutralize the acid and keep it from etching any further. Then rinse it like a sumbitch. Make sure all the baking soda is dissolved so it doesnt' clump in the tank. If your not going to use the muratic acid anymore, neutralize that with baking soda until it stops fizzing before you dump it. Don't be stupid, were protection, stupid hurts.

 

I was told that some of the new gas additives will eat the lining inside the tank. The first sign of this will be black particles in the fuel. Not sure what to do about it, but I have been told that some guys have had carbs and injectors clog up due to this stuff.