WOW... just typed out a lengthy response and it disappeared. Try again...

WOW - two hours is impresive based on what I've experienced now... that's a lot of work. I guess you have done it more than a time or two!

I had a great conversation with Bean a couple of weeks ago, and he was very informative. I know that Scott is very active here, and I've seen many glowing reports from his customers and am sure they do great work. As I'm looking for just basic port/polish and slight milling, it isn't rocket science and I'm sure any of these would be selections that I would be happy with. Budget is a big consideration, and I know you get what you pay for. I expect all three have offerings that would serve my needs and fit within my contraints. I'll likely make another call or two on Monday before deciding who to send them to, and I'm sure I can't go wrong either way. I will certainly talk to Scott or someone from Hillside, and appreciate the recommendation. I've seen enough posts from Scott and his customers to know that they can easily satisfy my meager needs and that they do great work.

I'm just enjoying the opportunity to wrench on my twinkie and learn more about how they're put together and how they work. I love DIY projects, and it doesn't hurt to be able to do this type of thing and save on the labor charges. It is great to have a resource out there such as this forum, and all the members who are so willing to help! That is why I have no issue supporting the site as a club member.

Thanks again!
Roger

 

So the heads came off and are on their way, and the TB was sent to HPI. Not a bad project, although I'm still shaking my head thinking about djl doing it in two hours... that is smoking!!!

When they did my cams they put in adjustable pushrods, but my buddy is telling me I should put the stockers back in now that I have the heads off. Any input or pro's/con's I should consider either way?

I talked with Dyno Bob the other day, and for those who may know or know of him he was injured in a bad accident back in August. He's healing well now, and is actually doing remote tunes from the comfort of his easy chair with the aid of a helper at the shop. As soon as I get everything back together and running, I'll be taking a run down to RC Cycles in Hayward and having Bob apply his magic touch.

Roger

 

I forget which cams you are planning to run, what head gasket and/or whether or not your heads will be milled. If you have been using adjustables with no issues, I see no reason to change. However, should you decide to change, you need to compare the valve train stack up height of the new configuration with the stock stack up height to be sure the fixed length of the stock pushrod is compatible with the new configuration. Cam base circle may be different, head gasket thickness will definitely be different and you will probalby be having heads milled for compression, so check it out.

I believe the VeeTwin street port package includes a larger intake valve and BBs does not; one of the differences in the two packages.

 

I've already got Andrews 31h cams, which is why they put adjustables on. I've sent the heads to Hillside, so they are going to do a mild mill to get the compression up to 9.7-9.8:1. Also planning to use an .030 head gasket.

They will also be replacing the intakes with 1.90" valves.

That being said I figured I'd have to reuse the adjustables, but my buddy believes the stockers should go back in, so I figured I'd post for those who have been there before so that I can make the right decision and not screw it up, or have to re-do it.

Thanks!
Roger

 

Decking the heads changes the height of the valve train. I believe Harley makes one-piece, replacement pushrods that are .030 shorter, but we all have already given enough $$$ to Harley. Stay w/ the adjustables.

 

Cool - thanks!

 

* * * OBE * * *

Don't forget to pick up adjustable pushrods ... you won't be able to reuse your stock take offs if you're decking the heads and going with a thinner head gasket ... or calculate the correct length and get perfect fit pushrods ...

R/
'Chop

 

Adjsutables are the way to go but I wouldn't go so far as to say that he "won't be able tu reuse stock take offs". That will depend on valve train stack up height; he may be able to retain the OEM pushrods, just depends on the math.

I just noticed that the intake valve is being replaced with a 1.9" piece. The larger valve could tag the piston as the valve reliefs were not cut for larger valves. it is good practice to have the valve reliefs on the OEM pistons moved outboard toward the outside of the piston to accomodate the larger valve. Since he is not removing the top end, it would be a good idea to check for contact/clearance with some clay or solder. Not saying contact is a given, just saying that it does happen and it would be a good idea to check.

 

Talked to Scott today, and he confirmed that they received my heads and the work to be done. Good follow-up from Hillside!

Also asked him about the potential valve clearance issue, and he confirmed that it could be an issue, so I need to get some more information so I can make the right checks and choices.

Right now I'm going to take a pass and think it through, as I've driven about 560 miles back from Vegas today and just finished my local bowling league, and need to think my questions through.

Thanks for bringing up the valve clearance!!! Would have hated to get it all back together only to find that it was dinging the piston!

Roger

 

Could is the operative word, it could also NOT be an issue. The way to verify is to mock up the top end and tape a piece of .060" solder across the valve relief; you can also use clay. You will have to bottom out the lifters so there can't be any leakdown should there be any contact. Slowly, very slowly rotate the crank via the rear wheel (trans in 5th). If you feel any resistance, stop; if you don't feel any resistance, you are home free. If you do feel resistance, it's really not that much more work to pull the cylinders, remove the pistons and send them to Scott; they can make the cut.

I know you didn't plan on it but if you have to pull the cylinders, you are only about $300 from going to a 103. Just send Scott your cylinders and pistons; they can bore and fit the new pistons, cut the piston valve reliefs and send it all back ready to go together. If you are thinking along those lines, let Scott know; you might want to take a bit off the heads to help those 31 cams with a 46* intake close.

Not trying to muddy the water, just giving you something to think about. Your there; we are talking another DIY hour and the benefits of increasing displacement are measurable. Talk it over with Scott.