I don’t seem to be able to delete my multiple posts. Sorrry guys

 

you need the book even early pan or knuckle for the adjustments but the rod is out way too much someone who had no idea was working on it

turn it in till its around an 1/8 if an inch you have at least 1/2 inch and its not releasing the discs - the real adjustment is a 1/16 but you might Not have the works in sink

if the rod stops going in back if off till you have an amount of end play and try it - no telling how off everything is seeing that or even if its the correct rod - 4 different rods 1936 on earlier and its different again

 

You’re right on the money. Guess I should have checked the book first. It says 1/8th inch free play. Currently it’s 1 1/4”.That might explain the grinding when shifting gears goin down the road. Apparently the person that put this bike together in the restoration didn’t have a book 😳

 

Missed it by "this" much... lolol

 

You mean ‘missed it by THAT much”, Maxwell

 

Hello Everyone!

brand new Flathead Owner, i inherited an old 1939 WL flathead from a good friend of mine. i have been studying manuals and trying to learn as much as i can on these old harleys to get myself familia with them.The bike kicks over and turns on easily, usually on the 2nd kick and it idles perfect with the original linkert carb. no issues with the bike turning on or staying idle.

the issue that i am having and stumped on is that once i am riding it it is very VERY hard to hand shift from 1st gear to 2nd gear. it is almost as it gets stuck. it is so hard that i broke the lever already which i have replaced from 45restorations.com. Shifting from 2nd gear to 3rd gear is no problem at all, very smooth and also downshifting. it is just from 1st gear to 2nd gear that it is crazy stiff and hard to shift. when the bike is off i can shift with no issues very smoothly. the only way that i am able to shift from 1st to 2nd is if i lower my speed low and then it shifts to 2nd but since i am going at a very low speed which is the opposite of what i should be doing.

another issue i noticed today is that after a few minutes of riding it, with the clutch engaged going from neutral to 1st from a stopped position the bike shuts off because once i jump to 1st the bike wants to take off even though i have the rocker clutch engaged all the way back which it shouldn't move the bike. this only happens after the bike has been riden for a few minutes. when the bike is cold it doesnt do that. going from neutral to 1st with the clutch in the bike does not start moving.

Again, brand new to the game and never owned or built an old Harley like this. any help is greatly appreciated.

 

You may have already done this but did you check the play in the clutch adjustment rod? Mine was way out when I got it. See above.

Nice inheritance btw 😀

 

Yea clutch is not disengaging correctly

and the trans could have an issue but first read up on the clutch

 

I'm having difficulty getting full engagement and disengagement with my rocker too.
I may go back to the lever type release I ran for a while.
Tending to a rash of other vehicle problems right now, but I'll get back to it soon.

 

The rocker has more travel then any lever - the rod end play is lost in the idea it has to be great

set the springs on the hub - set the screw close to the release bearing but not influencing it - the rod just a taste at the end almost nothing - every thing that motives must have a slippery lube on it like marine grease so water does not affect it

make sure the discs float on the hub posts real easy ( drill W bit )) if nessessery ) slide and no ditches in the posts - clutch discs in smooth and clean faces steels also flat and very clean

Foot travel is much more then the lever when adjusted correctly and every body is working the way it should

once you get it right you will feel it going away and a couple of checks will bring it right back - new to you new discs is always a great idea and alto disc is the deal