Help needed for stator plug removal
#1
Help needed for stator plug removal
I have read the manual on how to remove the stator plug (wire coming from the regulator into crank case) and frankly, it is confusing.
I am attempting to test the stator with a ohm/voltage meter. The manual states to remove the stator wire from the crankcase. I can't seem to be able to do this.
I am talking about the wire coming from the regulator into the crankcase on a 06 Road king.
Please help.
I am attempting to test the stator with a ohm/voltage meter. The manual states to remove the stator wire from the crankcase. I can't seem to be able to do this.
I am talking about the wire coming from the regulator into the crankcase on a 06 Road king.
Please help.
#2
There is a plug between the wires coming from the crankcase and the regulator. Disconnect the plug and test your stator from the contacts inside the plug attached to those wires coming from the motor.
#3
I know how to test... I can't seem to remove the plug from the crankcase.
Or... are you suggesting I do the test from the "Clip connector" that is behind the regulator?
#4
You can't remove the plug from the crankcase without cutting the wires. You don't want to do that.
#5
Ok.... the manual states to start the bike up to test... however, after disconnecting the clip, the bike won't start up. Do we start the bike up first and THEN disconnect the clip?
#6
What are you trying to determine? You can test the stator output in dc volts at the battery with a regular multi meter. The wires coming off the stator that come out of the primary case do not unplug.
Beyond that, the bike isn't gonna run if you unplug the stator wire plug at the voltage regulator.
Just use a multi meter on the battery terminals with the engine off. Then start it up and check for an increase in dc current. Turn on a few electrical devices, high beam, turn signals, radio etc. You still should be out putting north of what the battery was with the engine off.
All this said, maybe there's some HD way of doing it but that's how us rednecks get it done.
Beyond that, the bike isn't gonna run if you unplug the stator wire plug at the voltage regulator.
Just use a multi meter on the battery terminals with the engine off. Then start it up and check for an increase in dc current. Turn on a few electrical devices, high beam, turn signals, radio etc. You still should be out putting north of what the battery was with the engine off.
All this said, maybe there's some HD way of doing it but that's how us rednecks get it done.
#7
Stator Check
1. Turn ignition switch OFF.
2. Connect an ohmmeter.
a. Disconnect voltage regulator connector from alternator
stator wiring.
b. Insert one ohmmeter lead into a stator connector
socket.
c. Attach the other lead to a suitable ground.
3. Test for continuity with ohmmeter set to the ohms scale.
a. A good stator will show no continuity (open circuit)
between any stator sockets and ground.
b. Any other reading indicates a grounded stator which
must be replaced.
4. See Figure 1-18. Check resistance across stator sockets
1-2, 2-3 and 3-1.
5. Test for resistance with ohmmeter set on the ohms scale.
a. Resistance across all the stator sockets should be
0.1-0.2 ohms.
b. If the resistance is higher, the stator is damaged and
must be replaced.
c. If resistance is lower, this could indicate an internal
short between the windings.
AC Output Check
1. Test AC output.
a. Disconnect voltage regulator connector from alternator
stator wiring.
b. Connect an AC voltmeter across stator connector
sockets 1-2.
c. Run the engine at 2000 RPM. The AC output should
be 32-46 volts AC (approximately 16-23 per 1000
RPM).
d. Repeat test across stator sockets 2-3 and 3-1.
2. Compare test results to specifications.
a. If the output is below specifications, charging problem
could be a faulty rotor or stator.
b. If output is within specification, charging problem
might be faulty regulator. Replace as required.
1. Turn ignition switch OFF.
2. Connect an ohmmeter.
a. Disconnect voltage regulator connector from alternator
stator wiring.
b. Insert one ohmmeter lead into a stator connector
socket.
c. Attach the other lead to a suitable ground.
3. Test for continuity with ohmmeter set to the ohms scale.
a. A good stator will show no continuity (open circuit)
between any stator sockets and ground.
b. Any other reading indicates a grounded stator which
must be replaced.
4. See Figure 1-18. Check resistance across stator sockets
1-2, 2-3 and 3-1.
5. Test for resistance with ohmmeter set on the ohms scale.
a. Resistance across all the stator sockets should be
0.1-0.2 ohms.
b. If the resistance is higher, the stator is damaged and
must be replaced.
c. If resistance is lower, this could indicate an internal
short between the windings.
AC Output Check
1. Test AC output.
a. Disconnect voltage regulator connector from alternator
stator wiring.
b. Connect an AC voltmeter across stator connector
sockets 1-2.
c. Run the engine at 2000 RPM. The AC output should
be 32-46 volts AC (approximately 16-23 per 1000
RPM).
d. Repeat test across stator sockets 2-3 and 3-1.
2. Compare test results to specifications.
a. If the output is below specifications, charging problem
could be a faulty rotor or stator.
b. If output is within specification, charging problem
might be faulty regulator. Replace as required.
Last edited by Stiggy; 01-01-2013 at 06:46 PM.
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