Someone school me on these. Composite vs steel etc. Different models. Lug-drive, floating. Experience... etc...

The Lyndall site... http://www.lyndallracingbrakes.com/ does not contain updated products according to the person that answered the phone. He told me he would send a catalog... over a week ago.

In particular, I'm interested in their rotor design "Tribal" but it only appears to be made for their much more expensive composite rotors. Also, Drag Specialties Fatbook only lists more limited number of different models in stainless full-floats.

Help? lol

 

Composite rotors are far superior to stainless steel but then again what isn't. Cast iron is far superior too and are cheap but they rust if unplated. I have had the same conversations with Lyndall, yeah we make more rotor carrier options and button colors blah blah. Stainless rotors suck and I wouldn't pay any extra money to get them from anybody unless I had to replace a warped or cracked rotor, then I would just get floaters from HD, about 150 bucks. I know I was no help, sorry.

 

If you need to replace rotors it's one thing you may be limited for choices if you do not want stock.Ebay could take care of that.You might look there as well for your special rotors.Have to say this using Lyndall pads on stock rotors gives you more braking power than you will ever need.Both my bikes are equipped that way.

 

I have 3 Lyndal rotors on my FXDXT. Large reduction in unsprung weight contributes positivly to handling. Excellent braking; used to tour 2-up and have used them "hard" many times in the mountains...no rust, no dust, guaranteed for life if you use their pads. I wouldn't hesitate to use them again.

 

First of all, do some research on heat build up and what "fading" is and how it affects your ability to stop. Fading will become far more of a problem on a heavy touring bike loaded with gear and two up while you twist and turn downhill for ten miles in West Virginia than it will riding along the highway. Composite materials are said to dissipate heat much better than steel, but your riding style has to dictate whether or not you want to spend $400 a piece for rotors. Floating rotors fasten the rotor to the inner carrier with some form of button which allows the rotor to twist and move lateraly to stay aligned with the brake pads, which won't always be perfectly square to a fixed rotor. I believe the term "lug drive" refers to the type of button that the floating rotor uses. In my experience, chasing something like reduced unsprung weight is just marketing BS. Unmounted, my front wheel assembly (laced wheel, double rotor, and tire with tube for an ElectraGlide) feels like 30 pounds. Shaving a pound off that assembly weight is about like feeding one peanut to an elephant. Floating rotors of any brand combined with Lyndall pads should eliminate squeeling and will be an improvement over stock, but how much improvement depends on the bike and riding style.

 

50+ lbs of unsprung weight lost on a Dyna is very noticable, unless you are strictly a cruiser type (Aluminum swingarm, aluminum rims and 3X composite rotors = 50+ lbs)

My bike is 600lbs,measured with a shipping scale

Your results may vary; especially with Softails or FLH's.....

 

I believe that you should go back to high school and learn about Newtons #1 law. You like me was screwing around with the girls when they taught that part I am sure Hee he... A one pound object has many different weights depending on the size diameter it is swung on. In addition to that equation than comes RPM's. At 40 miles per hour a typical Harley wheel weighs in a 4 X the weight. A 45 pound static weight wheel now would weigh in at 180 lbs. Increase the rpm's and the weight increases logarithmically (not linearly). The weight differential is dependent how far away from the axle the weight is placed. If you have a (wheel #1) 40 pound hub close to the axle and a 5 pound tire at the perimeter and secondly if you have a (wheel #2) 5 pound hub close to the axle and a 40 pound tire at the perimeter they would statically weigh in the same. At 60 miles per hour and both wheels measuring 26.3" than the rpm's would be 767. Wheel #1 would weigh far, far less than wheel #2.

A complete touring wheel assembly weighs in with rotors far more than 30 pounds (tire/19.5 #, wheel 18 #, and rotors/12 #) the last time I weighed them.

The weight of a standard FL rotor is around 6 pounds and an 11 1/2" MMC weighs in at 1.6 pounds. My 320 mm rotors weigh in at 2.2 lbs each. More stopping power than an 11 1/2" due to added available torque being applied in reverse (use a 1/4" drive stubby V/S a 1/2" drive beaker bar).

The Lug drive idea came from a set of rotors that Paul borrowed from me that I purchased from Sandy Kosman a few years ago. Paul sent it to China and copied the design. Those are stainless steel friction rings and aluminum carriers.


Paul (Lyndall Racing Brake) can no longer sell MMC rotors.


The difference between a carbon fiber wheel and a standard wheel is worlds apart. Than add the other things that spin. No only will you start quicker (0.2 of a second on a top fuel), stop much quicker, and the benefit is being able to turn in quicker plus being able to lighten up the suspension resistance for a much smoother ride. For a second get your nose out of the OCC crap and think for yourself.

 

Well said!

 

Thanks for all the info everyone. Appreciate it. Feel free to continue.

 

I could see your reasoning if the wheel was unbalanced. However, if the wheel is balanced and we are discussing unsprung weight, wouldn't Newton's third law be more appropriate? It would appear speed would have no bearing on increasing unsprung weight.