OK.....dealer had the backing plate seal and the backing plate o-rings. Hard to believe!!! I thought while I was there I would get a new slow jet but didn't have in stock so tech confirmed chip in jet would be no problem as o/d said. After supper I ran around trying to find the fuel bowl screws in a hex head. Found them finally at Lowes in stainless. They are a smidge shorter than the oem but I think they will work. If not, back out on the trail.

Is there a way to see if float floats without removing it? It doesn't feel heavy like there is gas in it so don't want to remove it unless I have to.

I'm a little puzzled though as I didn't see/find anything out of the ordinary like a loose jet or something, but then I'm no expert in carbs by a long shot so I guess I could have missed something. o/d I'm not sure if the side holes were plugged or not when I first removed the slow jet. But I know for a fact they are not right now after hitting it with carb cleaner and blowing it out.

Tomorrow when I'm fresh, I will reinstall everything and try again. I sure hope that she fires up as usual and runs good as I don't know what to do next. But hopefully if that is not the case, someone here will direct me to the next step!

Oh, forgot to ask. Is there any reason at this point that I should pull the top and check the needle assemble and vacuum piston? Since it responded to throttle when running I'm guessing that it is functioning. I just don't want to tear into it if not needed as I have read what a bear getting that piston back in and sealed properly can be.

Also, should I pull the enricher and see if there is anything out of whack there?

Thanks guys for the responses. Hope I can report back in the morning that all is well. Of course I won't know what it was but I'll be glad that it is running again...hopefully!

 

I think what youve done should be sufficient except I would pull the float off as someone else suggested and take a look at that plunger. Its really not very hard to do and as the other guy said, dont force it. If the pin doesnt want to slide right out one way, go the other way with it. If you get it all back together and still have the problem, Id start looking at the petcock. Keep us posted.

 

Thanks for the info tech23. I'll try that paperclip idea in the morning and see what the needle looks like. It would be good for sure to know that the float does not have any fuel in it and the needle is ok. Just eliminate another area of concern if she doesn't run right tomorrow after reassemble. And thanks for the tip on running the fuel level down when parked for a while. I don't ride the bike everyday but usually at least once or twice a week.

Any chance the enricher is acting up? You suggest removing it from the carb body and checking it out?

 

LMAO....you mean today, or within the hour?

 

You are welcome....

If you are going to spray carb cleaner into the body of the carb...completely disassemble the carb. including the enrichener. It makes no sense to completely remove a carb. and disassemble it half way...especially when there are obvious problems with it. Any rubber that has been hit with carb cleaner may be best to replace. I think you may find a groove/ring around the float valve needle, especially if it's rubber. Just be gentle with the float level adjustment tab and take note of how the fine wire on the float valve needle attaches to the float tab. You dont want to bend the tab and change the float level or you will have problems for sure. I would still check the float level before buttoning it up and reinstalling the carb. There is plenty of information online about how to go through the Keihin CV carb.

Tech23

 

I mean right now! I guess Im a little impatient...

 

Curiosity got the best of me. Went out to try the paperclip and the rod holding the float on would not budge. I did notice an arrow that is embossed in the carb pointing one direction so tried pushing it through in the direction of the arrow and still no go. Will try again tomorrow when more patient and in better light. Any ideas on this before I tackle it in the morning would be helpful!

 

Service manual to the rescue.....again! Pin for the float is interference fit. Has to be driven out in direction of arrow. Will do this tomorrow and check seat on needle valve. I've been pretty sparing with the cleaner so hope rubber is not effected at this point. Will also remove the enricher and be sure all is clean in there. What should I be using to spray/clean things with so as not to damage rubber bits? Throttle body cleaner any better? Geez! This has turned into a two day project!

 

MGN54,
If the bike ran OK prior to the raw gas out the exhaust, you most likely don't need carb cleaner at all. I would just blow it out the fuel passages, remove the pilot (idle) jet and blow compressed air through the carb passage and the jet while it's in your hand, and do the same to the main jet and main jet holder (emulsion tube). Blow air through the float valve passage too. You don't want to blow air through installed jets...it could send dirt further into the fuel passages inside the carb body. Based on your symtom I think you will find your problem lies with the float valve taper. If it is you will need a float valve (needle and seat) kit. Get accustomed to running the fuel down inside the float bowl like I described...even if that was not the problem the taper on the float valve will live longer.

The float pin should only need a light tap with hammer and a pin punch, you could probably use a short, straight section of coat hanger with the ends dressed flat. Be careful you don't strike the float or disturb the float adjustment tab...doing so will either make the engine starve for fuel or overfill the float bowl with the excess fuel ending up in your crankcase diluting the oil. The fuel has likely already washed the oil off the cylinder walls...this is not a good thing. If enough oil is washed away the rings lose thier ability to seal, and could cause a no start situation, the engine will crank fast from the loss of compression when this happens. I have seen it where a small amount of motor oil squirted into the cylinder was needed to restore compression so the engine would fire.

Tech23

 

I feel like I'm watching, "As The World Turns", can't wait till tomorrow!