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If you don't have your axle nut torqued to spec, your wheel bearing may be turning on the axle. Have you ever had to press your axle through a wheel to install it?? That's what the spacers are for, to pinch down on the inner race and and keep it from moving while the bearings and outer race do move.
If you don't have your axle nut torqued to spec, your wheel bearing may be turning on the axle. Have you ever had to press your axle through a wheel to install it?? That's what the spacers are for, to pinch down on the inner race and and keep it from moving while the bearings and outer race do move.
You don't want to " pinch down" on the inner rings...that causes preload and ultimately, premature failure. The spacers should prevent that from happening. If the axle nut causes the inner rings to be pushed inward while the outer ring is held in the hub, that's trouble waiting to happen.
Last edited by tallboy56; Nov 11, 2011 at 04:46 PM.
Reason: misunderstood the writer's comment
Some wheels like mine have 3/4 axle. Guess you put these in a larger 1" ID bearing and run them on 3/4 axles. Need to be real careful. Some axles are actually 25mm or 0.984 My opinion is doing this kind of adapting is dangerious.
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Yes they have the reducers J&P and Vtwin sell them , you can also change the bearings but you also need to replace the inner spacer spacer too and that can be a bit involved with aftermarket wheels or bearings sometimes . On occasion things can be off a few thou of an inch dimension wise you need to check it all for proper fit .
you can also change the bearings but you also need to replace the inner spacer spacer too and that can be a bit involved
This is the way to go when swapping wheels. Changing the bearings will require a trip to the machine shop for the inner spacer...this eliminates that step and they sell them for 25mm too.
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