I will be getting my heads done this winter along with swapping my cam to a S&S 585.
I work in a machine shop, so im totally capable of of boring it.

My question is how big is my throttle body now being stock, and how big should i go to optimize my setup?

goals for my machine is to just go like a son a bitch....over 100/100

 

You work in a machine shop yet can't measure the current throat?
And you want someone here to tell you the bore with out knowing what carb or model bike you have?
Also remember to taper the new bore to the venturi when you open the current bore. You want a smooth transition not a sudden step in the bore. Bore the hole behind the slide/butterfly not the bore ahead of said venturi.
Be conservative about how much you open the bore. Too much and you'll ruin the carb.

 

i could absolutely measure it....if my bike were disassembled which its not and wont be for a few more weeks.

All my bikes info is in my signature. It is the stock throttle body, as i stated in my original post. Along with other planned winter mods.

Was simply asking if anyone knew off the top of their head

Not sure if this is the right place to ask, thought it might be a good place to start

 

Rereading my response makes it sound demeaning, which I did not mean to do.
Also I did not read your signature line.
My bad.
38mm carb = 1.496"
40 = 1.5748" or 1.575"
42 = 1.6535"
44 = 1.7323"
46 = 1.811"
48 = 1.8897" or1.89"
50 = 1.9685"
I don't know the Ness sucker size. Too big a hole and you can wind up with a wasted carb, at least for the engine you have now. Carbs are designed for a purpose and should be fitted for a particular engine. You can open one to not work on your engine or install one which will stifle an engine. Be prepared to ruin the carb if not sized for your needs.
I have a CV which I bored to 1.649" but the guy I did this for had a life changing experience and we never got to see how well it worked. Can't remember the starting bore but assume it was 40 mm. That works out to be .074" over. I seem to remember an article in maybe AIM magazine prompted us to try this I did this maybe 15 years ago and so don't remember all the details. Too many dead brain cells, I'd guess.
Hope this give you some hints.
As I noted previously, try to copy the bore you are opening to keep the inside taper behind the venturi. A sudden step might cause an unwanted turbulence in the mix flow.
Oh, I turned and drilled a spud to mount the carb from the clearer side to bore it in a lathe chuck. Might need a four jaw to center the existing carb bore. That way worked real well

 

thats what i was looking
appreciated advice man