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General Topics/Tech TipsDiscussion on break in periods, rider comfort, seats and pad suggestions. Tech tips as they become available will be posted here.
I would think that it had to seal as it didn't leak before you took it a part.. Maybe the O ring swelled up a little during cleaning? I hate the stock bleeders. Hex part is too narrow and the bleeder nipple too short. I'm good at making messes when the bleed hose pops off.. I ended up making my own bleeders..
I don't mind a mess with DOT 5 but hate spilling 4 everywhere.
The newer, later Rev calipers would have been designed to use those bleeders with the o-ring. Installing the earlier bleeders into a later caliper would always work (without the benefit of the o-ring of course), but installing the later bleeders into the earlier caliper...no bueno
I believe they added o-rings to seal the OD of the bleeders while bleeding. They also at some point changed the recommended bleeding procedure to vacuum from pressure (on some model lines, if not all)
As to weeping... If you feel metal to metal contact of the bleeder screw to seat, then do see any areas on the bleeder screw sealing area that would allow fluid to get past?
I never did feel metal to metal contact with the o-ring bleeder when I re-stalled it in the caliper it came from. Fluid seeped from the nipple. What I learned from all this was, when I find an old style caliper with an o-ring bleeder; replace it
...What I learned from all this was, when I find an old style caliper with an o-ring bleeder; replace it
I think that's a good idea
As it appears they have discontinued the o-ring version and back to the earlier version (and part#) with good reason...I'm thinking people were getting "F'd Up"...you can go one way, but not the other
Can you take Bleeder screw "Area" pic(s) on your apparently later versions of the 2000-07 calipers.
Or you could save the $40 and just wrap the caliper in a towel, squirt a little air in the the fluid hole and pop goes the piston. However, do not do this without wrapping the caliper in a towel or the puck will launch through your garage window and out into the front yard! Ask me how I know.
Or you could save the $40 and just wrap the caliper in a towel, squirt a little air in the the fluid hole and pop goes the piston. However, do not do this without wrapping the caliper in a towel or the puck will launch through your garage window and out into the front yard! Ask me how I know.
That absolutely works on two piston calipers, every time. With four piston calipers it's a bit of a crap shoot, especially when one (or more) pistons are stuck or slow to come out. Once one of the pistons comes out, that's it, no more air pressure. For me, this is easier than turning on the compressor.
What I always used to keep the pistons from flying around was two paint stir sticks. They allow the pistons to come very nearly all the way out of the bore but don't let them out of the caliper. When doing this on a caliper that had DOT 4 in it, I'd do it outside because there's a mist that escapes that can harm paint on bikes in the garage.
Last edited by Campy Roadie; Mar 4, 2018 at 03:56 AM.
As it appears they have discontinued the o-ring version and back to the earlier version (and part#) with good reason...I'm thinking people were getting "F'd Up"...you can go one way, but not the other
Can you take Bleeder screw "Area" pic(s) on your apparently later versions of the 2000-07 calipers.
Sorry Multi, I just saw this.
Newer is first, older is second. Definitely a recess for the O-ring on the newer caliper.
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