So I'm doing a belt change on my '12 Fat Bob (40k mi.) and have the primary case open.
Gonna look at the clutch and see if I'm due for a new clutch and or spring.
Thinking of updating the compensator but not sure about that.
My question is; should I go with a manual chain tensioner or just put a stock unit back in? The one in it has pretty deep grooves in the shoe so it's gotta go, that's for sure.
Your thoughts?

PS: This is my first time inside the primary of a Harley.

 

Can you just replace the plastic shoe?
and let's see pictures.
does the shoe have vertical springs under it and a big horizontal spring?

 

It doesn't look like it. No screws or bolts to take off to get it off. Looks like the ends of the rods that go through the shoe are peened. It's the stock unit.
Looking at the Hayden tensioner now. It's only $129, prolly cheaper than OEM, and it's automatic instead of manual.

 

First off , at 40,000 why do you think a new drive belt is in order? did it get damaged? A drive belt will/should last for way longer then that. Is the comp making noise? if it is loose it for the updated model or an after market one. As far as the auto tensioner , I would replace it (many opinions on this) .Mine worked fine for 32,000 miles then failed miserably. If it is necessary to replace the belt there are a few other things that need to be checked while the inner primary is off. Inspect the inner primary bearing for scoring or gulling(this would be caused from a to tight auto tensioner) There are other things that need to be checked , there are many post/you tube videos on this topic. Unless your looking for a performance clutch your clutch should be fine at 40,000. Some folks replace the clutch spring for a stiffer more positive feeling clutch. My point is don't spend money on things not needing replacement but do spend money on things that do need replacing.

 

As 1340hog asks, why do you want/need to change the belt? Left alone they can do over 100k miles, as can the rest of the bike.

 

A manual tensioner would be awful unless you can find now outer cover with acess. You want to take the cover off every 5K miles?

I would definitely change the primary bearing. my 07 has gone through them every 25k. Last one I went with baker on piece. Only 5k so I can't say.

When the primary bearing when the first time I went with Hayden spring tensioner. Thinking that was the problem. It failed again. I still can't see how the Harley one works, and wonder if they jsut didn't want to pay royalties.

Years ago people liked the hydraullic tensioner. In theory no spring to weaken. I forget who made them.

I just replaces the oil seal on the crank, at 60k it had been failed for awhile I suspect. Easy to do with primary off. I would also replace the stator, under $150, and hopefully won't take the primary off for many miles. I did mine at 55k. Since I had to loosen volt reg, I figured change that too. Glad I did bottom was cracking. Thoug you don't need to pull primary for volt veg. Once I started using 1/4 drive sockets volt regs got easier.

What about bushings or spacers in swing arm? I'd read up on this.

Myself, stator, primary bearing, sprocket shaft oil seal(crank), research different auto tensioner.

 

I dunno about that.

As for the belt, I have been planning for a few winters to do mine, before it fails. It is something that will leave you stranded.

 

Some people will bash the Hayden. Like anything else there are horror stories that go with it. I've had one on my slightly modified 110 for about 20k miles...no problems and barely any wear on the shoe. The earlier version had some issues with the springs but they changed them. If you have the extra money and you're not in a hurry get the baker. Unless your other parts are damaged or showing obvious signs of wear they shoukd have alot of life left. I'm still on my stock compensator and clutch friction plates. Had to put a stiffer spring in and new steel plates last year but you should be ok. These bikes will drain your wallet on their own...dont help by buying things just because. One thing you might want to take a close look at is the inner primary bearing and the race.

 

I can't take you serious. Why do people bother bringing up so low miles?

 

Hold on! Why did you mention needing to change a belt before it fails! Pot - black!