Been messing with the wiring. Here's what I have so far:
1) The fat bob wiring is reversed for the rear lamp circuit board due to the inverted tail light. This just means that the tail turn signal connectors need to go in opposite. I had that figured out yesterday.
2) The wires for the turn signals that came with the fender are too short to reach through all the openings because street glide tail light is right side up.
3) When I got my light bar kit, the front turn signals were only two-wire, and I needed three, for the running lights.
4) I got a set of 3-wire off ebay to replace the two-wire fronts
5) I got the idea yesterday to use the front signals on the back as the back are only two-wire as well, and the wires are longer
6) I removed the terminals from the amp multilock housing, and crimped on new terminals.
7) I then connected the turn signals to the rear bar and criss-crossed as needed to account for the upside down fat bob wiring, even though my new tail circuit board is right side up.
8) I plugged in yesterday and had the weird stuff going on with the rear signals.
9) This morning I took off the ones with the longer wires and reinstalled the originals from fat bob to verify that TSSM was still working correctly: all was well with that.
10) I installed the turn signals that came with the fender and criss-crossed as needed (see 7 above), and connected
11) Op check on that worked out well, also.
12) I wanted to use the 2-wire fronts I had as I didn't want to extend the rear wires to fit.
13) At this point, though, I have no choice but to extend, as they are working as advertised.
14) I'm guessing has something to do with dual element or something on the fronts that is jimmying with the TSSM and causing erratic operation, so best just to extend the wires for the rear signals that came with the fender and call it a day on that.

I write the specifics out here for anyone who likes the nuts/bolts of what I'm doing in case someone runs into same issues in the future, so pardon my wordiness.

AFMM3 - to answer question about what kind of fork boots: I forget, when I got them I just searched ebay for 49mm fork boots from a tip from another forum member. It was 4 years ago, but they're working well, so I'll keep them, it's cosmetic anyway.

I did use my original rear harness and tail light, so everything just plugged in. I hear the rear harness is not as exspensive as you might think but if you have yours rewired, good. I did electronics for 20 years in the Air Force and now do high end commercial security, so electrical and electronics is so second nature to me that I don't really think about what I am doing and consequently don't remember immediately what I did. You are bringing back some of what I did only 1 year ago.

I still vote for gloss black with 1960s "California Kid" flames on the tank only!

I was maintenance test pilot in Army my last several years on blackhawks, and had an avionics tech teach me the ropes on solid connections. It has paid off so far. Turn signal wires have been successfully extended for my 'criss-cross' and so far they are working, front and back, as advertised. Also was able to successfully test wire up my spot lights using my relay. Here's small description of how my spot lights will be wired:

1) 30 amp relay
2) on/off toggle switch
3) customer accessory connector (deutsch) under the seat
4) B+ battery connector under the seat (Metri-pack 480)
5) 15 amp fuse

a) I have the spot light wires joining together into 1 and then feeding into terminal 87 on the relay.
b) Terminal 20 on the relay (which joins with 87 for the main connection) will feed into a 15 amp fuse, which will tap off the B+ connector (metri-pack 480, still need to find the terminals for those)
c) Terminal 85 on the relay will be ground, feeding into the customer accessory port ground connection
d) Terminal 86 will feed into the on/off toggle switch, then into the hot terminal of the customer accessory port

here's a pic of that (credits to original posters all over the forum for the relay connections):

[IMG][/IMG]

I wired it up using temporary connections and had successful on/off control via the ignition switch to accessory, and via the toggle switch. No headlight in the loop. All worked well.

All in all a successful day. I need to find some mesh wire covering, a few connectors, and, figure out the cleanest way to get the front wiring into the frame and back to the battery. As mentioned before, I plan on installing a on/off rocker switch into the electrical caddy cover. There's plenty of room there, and will be out of the way, but accessible enough to reach down with left hand and flip the lights off as needed. Also need to find a good place to put the 15amp fuse for the B+ connection.

Note the source of power for the switch to terminal 30. I would take this from the yellow spade terminal (low beam). You will have the best of all worlds: on/off with the key, on/off with the low beam and on/off with the switch. Keep the connectors clean on the relay i.e. heat shrink.

Tank flames on Vivid Black!

Did you mean terminal 86 for yellow spade connector, to activate the relay? I bought a relay housing that the relay plugs which is prewired. It's nice and clean, but I'll make sure to use di-electric grease for the final install. I use aviation grade crimp connectors for all my splices, and a crimping tool I got from NAPA last week which crimps barrel connectors very nicely. And, of course heat shrink where needed, and then some. Looking at expandable braided wire shielding now. Tomorrow will see how much I need on that stuff. Very cheap by the foot and cleans the wires up nicely.

Here: http://www.cabletiesandmore.com/

Yea, 87 (oops)

My father's milling machine is an older Bridgeport that weighs between 2k & 3k lbs.

I picked up the Harbor Freight motorcycle truing/balancing stand last week. I have been checking and repairing the true of my wheels and found them to be out of balance slightly. Best $40 I have spent in awhile. http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...d=truing+stand

Harbor Freight has some good stuff every now and then. I'll be getting the transfer punch set from them in next few days for marking my holes on the rear fender. We don't have one here in Flagstaff so have to order online from them, unless I happen to be down in Phoenix when I need something. I was looking online at this little hobby grizzly mill/drill for around $600 for playing around with, but need some more important things first. Still need a new seat or two, bubble bags, round stage one air cleaner kit to get rid of that teardrop eyesore. Can you believe HD used that teardrop on the switchback? I had up close look Friday at the switchback, and that, to me, was the only thing that detracted from its looks. I like the floorboards a lot, other than not having heel/toe option. One reason I've hesitated on the wyatt kit, is that in case 12 inches from heel to toe is not enough for me, given that the heel toe is one piece, I don't have a lot of options for extending that. If you have some close ups of your softail set up for floorboard, that would be great. I looked up close at a heritage and don't know how I'd make that fit.

Also, what did you use to stick your rear harness back onto the fender?

Using the yellow spade off the headlamp would ease the wiring somewhat, but I like the idea of being in total control of them, i.e. having them on even when high beams are on. I know DOT doesn't like that, but around here in the forest at night (if needed) I'd like to have that option.

I made a lot of progress yesterday, but I think I punched a hole in that silly little brake lever rubber boot on the right hand control. Not sure yet. I had to remove my hand controls to get the old turn signal wiring out, and think I put the spacer in the wrong spot; either that or it's a little piece that's just worn out. I'll inspect that later. I've been keeping copious notes as to what I've removed so's not to forget something on the final installation of everything. I think you'll like my paint job I'm planning, but still not so sure flames are for me.

There is a foam glue strip (conduit) that the wiring goes into. It is stuck to the inside of the fender. Well worth the $10 or so that it costs.

I'll post up some pictures of my floorboard adapters. 6061 T6 aluminum cut with a bandsaw. This stuff is stronger than steel, cut out of a wrecked NASCAR modified firewall/enginemount.

Did you get the conduit from the dealer? Do you have the part number? Can't wait to see the up close pics of the boards. thanks.

Yea, got the foam conduit from the dealer. I would just get it from your local dealer (got to support them once in a while). Got to play with the pictures a little, they don't want to upload again.