Pardon my pun, but shifting gears for a second - how do you all deal with getting under the fender for removing the seat, if using a two-up or bib? On fat bob, no problem to reach up under there, but with full rear, a little more difficult. I was thinking of just welding the underneath nut to the underside of the fender, and just curious how you all did it. Thanks for the links on the parts. I've taken lots of leaps of faith with this whole project, and will continue to do so based on your recommendations with the boards as well. I shouldn't have looked at the heritages at the dealer last week, as what I saw really threw me off as far as figuring out how you made it work. I'll be looking for some take offs, and figure out how to make that work as well. I like these ideas with the softail boards better than the wyatt as I'll be able to put longer heel-toe on if needed.
I ordered a cross slide vise and some end mills yesterday to play around with on my drill press with some aluminum. Got some transfer punches headed this way from harbor freight for marking my rear fender mounting holes. Buddy bringing up his unishears from his parents so's we can get to cutting needed piece off the fat bob fender for extending my street glide fender. Also have a small rocker switch on its way for my spot lights. I plan on removing the fuse block and using one of the spare ports for the B+ connector for main power through the relay to the lights. I have too many wires underneath the seat with the battery tender and the rear turn/brake/tail connector, so I want to clean that up a bit. Contemplating sanding the black off my battery cover and elec. caddy cover to tin it out and look older. Cosmetic stuff that can wait, but just some thoughts going through my brain. Also, will dispense with that tear drop ugly air cleaner and cover for for the stage I round kit and accessory cover.
I'll make sure to make a good write up on that with pics.
