When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Steps on How to Fix Ignition Starting Randomly in Neutral or When using Clutch Lever
Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel InjectionNeed advice on ignition issues? Questions about a tuner? Have questions about a EFI calibration or Fuel Injection? Tips on Engine Diagnostics, how to get codes, and what they mean. Find your answers here.
Steps on How to Fix Ignition Starting Randomly in Neutral or When using Clutch Lever
This is a write up on an issue I figured out and fixed today should be applicable to any bike that uses 71684-06A for the start button on the right handlebar (I think a bunch of bikes from 2009-2013 use it, could be more). Written in hope of helping others.
Problem: Ignition Starting Randomly in Neutral or When using Clutch Lever. Leaving bike in neutral and ignition in on & run positions will result in bike starting by itself. Starter will try to run at a stoplight when clutch lever is all the way in. This could be because of a short or other electrical issue, but this is the issue I've seen nagging people on the forums.
How to fix the 'official' way: Replace part 71684-06A (~$50 part).
How to fix & percent this from happening the unofficial way:
1. Take Start button housing apart & bend retaining clip back so the 'start' push button is out of the metal bracket that holds it to the button housing (no ~not~ cut the wires). Remove the switch rocker cover with a flathead screwdriver. (photo below is after I messed with the switch a little).
2. Using a small pick or flathead screwdriver, scrape away the white material from the outside of the switch. 3. Squeeze the top of the switch with pliers so a small gap appears near the rotating *** & use the pick/screwdriver to pry the top off.
4. Use rag to clean away all grease and water. Make it ~shine~
5. Glob Dielectric grease all over the inside of the switch. Rotate the **** to ensure that you get grease on the backside of the spring loaded contact plate.
6. Scrape away any plastic bits you gouged into when opening this switch & reseal with silicon dabbed on the side of the switch plate before pushing into the housing.
7. Also apply silicone or dielectric grease to the bottom of the housing of the switch where the wires enter the housing. Mine had a visible gap that could let water into the switch. The most likely place water entered the switch is the gap between the housing of the switch and the rotating ****. Make sure to glob dielectric grease on this ****. These two locations are also simple places to put dielectric grease on the 'run' switch while you're here. The dielectric grease won't hurt anything, so put a nice glob on it,then wipe away the grease that oozes out after the switch cover is put back on. Let the silicone dry, then reinstall the switch.
This method is simple, quick (you don't have to open front fairing & reinstall wiring), and cost effective. The additional grease near the rotating **** makes the switch less likely than replacing with a new part that has the same vulnerability.
Applying grease at the base of the **** is also a simple preventative action for anyone who's bike isn't kept under a roof.
I thought this picture was in the original post, but it wasn't. This is what the inside of the switch looked like originally, showing the small dab of grease in there originally, as well as the water that was found in it.