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Old Nov 16, 2025 | 05:00 PM
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Default MAP sensor

Hi-
2012 FLHTK 150,000 miles. Last ride it started to stumble. Over the course of about 5 miles of nursing it home it stumbled momentarily, then it seemed to run on one cylinder ok for a bit, then a couple of times engine quit completely while rolling, then would restart on it's own and run perfectly for a bit then repeat. Never backfired, just stumbled.
Fortunately I made it home, pulled codes from the odometer and it shows bad MAP sensor and a half dozen parts that I know it doesn't need, like a speedo and tach.
My questions are-
Does that engine behavior sound like a bad MAP sensor? ie is the code accurate?
Any point in trying to clean it, or should I just replace it?

My experience with carburetors and points is extensive, but the electronics throw me. Appreciate any input.
Thanks, guys.
 

Last edited by GlennJ; Nov 16, 2025 at 05:08 PM. Reason: Correct spelling error
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Old Nov 16, 2025 | 05:37 PM
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Yes, that stumbling and cutting out is a classic symptom of a bad MAP sensor. The code is likely accurate.
Don't bother trying to clean it. Just replace the MAP sensor. It's a common failure point on high-mileage bikes.
The other codes are probably ghost codes caused by the main MAP sensor failure.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2025 | 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by GlennJ
Hi-
2012 FLHTK 150,000 miles. Last ride it started to stumble. Over the course of about 5 miles of nursing it home it stumbled momentarily, then it seemed to run on one cylinder ok for a bit, then a couple of times engine quit completely while rolling, then would restart on it's own and run perfectly for a bit then repeat. Never backfired, just stumbled.
Fortunately I made it home, pulled codes from the odometer and it shows bad MAP sensor and a half dozen parts that I know it doesn't need, like a speedo and tach.
My questions are-
Does that engine behavior sound like a bad MAP sensor? ie is the code accurate?
Any point in trying to clean it, or should I just replace it?

My experience with carburetors and points is extensive, but the electronics throw me. Appreciate any input.
Thanks, guys.
Remember, codes do not mean failed parts - they mean a circuit problem. So it could be a failed part, a wire, a connection. You may very well have a bad MAP sensor, but don't want you to think that codes mean parts as that will bite you in an expensive way one day.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2025 | 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Bass-M
Yes, that stumbling and cutting out is a classic symptom of a bad MAP sensor. The code is likely accurate.
Don't bother trying to clean it. Just replace the MAP sensor. It's a common failure point on high-mileage bikes.
The other codes are probably ghost codes caused by the main MAP sensor failure.
Thank you, Sir!
 
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Old Nov 16, 2025 | 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Ed Ramberger
Remember, codes do not mean failed parts - they mean a circuit problem. So it could be a failed part, a wire, a connection. You may very well have a bad MAP sensor, but don't want you to think that codes mean parts as that will bite you in an expensive way one day.
Got it. Thank you Sir!
 

Last edited by GlennJ; Nov 16, 2025 at 07:46 PM. Reason: Clarification
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Old Nov 17, 2025 | 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by GlennJ
Hi-
2012 FLHTK 150,000 miles. Last ride it started to stumble. Over the course of about 5 miles of nursing it home it stumbled momentarily, then it seemed to run on one cylinder ok for a bit, then a couple of times engine quit completely while rolling, then would restart on it's own and run perfectly for a bit then repeat. Never backfired, just stumbled.
Fortunately I made it home, pulled codes from the odometer and it shows bad MAP sensor and a half dozen parts that I know it doesn't need, like a speedo and tach.
My questions are-
Does that engine behavior sound like a bad MAP sensor? ie is the code accurate?
Any point in trying to clean it, or should I just replace it?

My experience with carburetors and points is extensive, but the electronics throw me. Appreciate any input.
Thanks, guys.
It could be the sensor, but I don’t think so. If rhe sensor goes completely dead , your ECM will fallback to the map backup table which should keep the bike running decent.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2025 | 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by stroisi12
It could be the sensor, but I don’t think so. If rhe sensor goes completely dead , your ECM will fallback to the map backup table which should keep the bike running decent.
Noted. Wish I were more knowledgeable on the electronic side of things.
I've ordered a sensor, if it doesn't fix it then I've got a spare. In the meantime I'm going to inspect the peripheral stuff like wiring and connection integrity and anything else that comes up. Thanks.
 

Last edited by GlennJ; Nov 17, 2025 at 09:18 AM. Reason: Clarification
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Old Nov 17, 2025 | 11:30 AM
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check for broken wires at the tmap sensor.
i had the same issue and i believe it was a broken ground wire at the plug. i just replaced the wires and all was well. if you wiggle those wires while the bike is running you may be able to get it to stall.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2025 | 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by memphisharley
check for broken wires at the tmap sensor.
i had the same issue and i believe it was a broken ground wire at the plug. i just replaced the wires and all was well. if you wiggle those wires while the bike is running you may be able to get it to stall.
Planning on it. Thanks.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2025 | 09:01 AM
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not necessarily
the obd2 system has an order of things and a failure in one area can trigger false codes.
it all depends upon HOW the map is used. map is a sensor that helps determine engine loading by diff'l pressures but it can also control things like transmission and such.
that is why proper diagnostics is needed before thrown parts and $$$$ till it runs.
it could be a skewed sensor, a leaking seal or hose (how it is hooked up) or a plugged hole (very tiny) that references atmospheric pressure.
your symptoms has a multitude of possible causes. i do not think dropping a cylinder is map based since map effects the whole engine. also, most ecu's have a fail safe that will allow the engine to run but with reduce power and such.
 
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