I might as well jump in this mix although I'm not sure the question wouldn't be better suited in a thread of it's own.. lol

Steve... I'm about to finish a 103" build with flat top pistons, 10.2-1 comp, GMR heads, SE211 cams, Big Radius 2-1 pipe and HD heavy breather... Already bought the TTS... My question is; do you have a base map already installed in the TTS that will be close for these cams and 103" and if not, which map would you start with so I can do leak check etc without hurting the motor until I can get warm enough weather to start the tune?..

Thanx

 

Guess I killed this thread when I posted.. lol

 

Since I cannot see what year and model your bike is I cannot answer. Use the Calibration guide that comes with the product and pick out the one that closest matches what you have in your build. I do not think were going to have one for that exact camshaft but pick one that is close and go from there.

The upgrades that are coming out will allow you to copy the tables you already have done and place them in the new base calibration.

 

Thanks for responding Steve.. Guess I should have included the most important info... '08 Softail Rocker with the 96B built to 103" with the SE211 cams, etc that I listed above.. Knowing this info now, which map would be closest for me and the safest place to start?

Thanks

 

MS176-000 would be a good starting point I would think. You could also try a PI176-000 but it might not work as well. You cam selection is kind of in th emiddle.

 

Thanks Steve... I appreciate the help..

 

Just wanted to throw in, I've completed my v-tune sessions for my 09 Streetglide. I followed the simple method, my bike puts out ample power, so not interested in tweaking.

Thanks Steve and TTS for enabling me to bring FI tuning into my garage and freeing me from the bonds of the dyno.

Your product allows the novice user to create a good tune, and it's obviously powerful enough to handle the power hungry.

 

Hi all, a question. I have Vtuned my base map and I have taken some type 2 data. I checked for spark knock and had some. With Doc's help he told me to reduce timing between 70 and 90 kPa and 2k-2750 rpm. Going back and plotting a graph of these variables rear knock etc... it made a lot of sense because that is where the detonation occurs. I went out for a ride and took the same data. Detonation in that range is gone but I did get very little in the 95-100 kPa and the 4200-5700 rpm range (both meassured before and after the 2.0 and 2.25 knock retard) - two incidents. Does it follow that I can reduce the advance 1 -1.25 degrees in this range as I did in the other to get rid of this detonation??? Or do I bother with this at all? My best guess given the high RPM, looking at my speed and knowing the ride is this was getting on a freeway where two combine and having to accelerate quickly and probably in 3rd and 4th gear.

 

Go ahead and adjust your spark advance 1-1.25° less in the area were knock was detected...
see post #28 in this thread...

 

I just wondered if anyone has encountered any problems using V-tune with the screaming Eagle
Heavy breather? The only things I can find do seem a little speculative about "potential"problems. Anyone know or had problems with tuning? Iknow they were used on a few CVO models.

Paul