Ok was riding to work today and my bike suddenly shut down. 98' hugger. I just replaced the ignition switch (Where the key geos) on sunday and put about 50 miles on it in the local area. I'm surte I need to replace it again since it is doing the same exact thing as the last one. Issue is that as soon as i flip the kill switch to pops the ignition fuse. What would be making me fry the ignition? Lights and guages still turn on with the key but it blows that 15A fuse as soon as you hit the kill switch. At a loss. Any help is appriated. Thanks -Chris

 

Apparently you have a direct short associated with the kill switch. If each time you hit the kill switch you blow the fuse indicates a hot wire is being grounded, thus the fuse failure. I would start looking around kill switch for loose or bare wires...

 

A common place for kill switch shorts is right under it. The wire pinches out on the bar. Be cautious when when working around that area, they are big wires squeezed into a small metallic space. Shorts are easy to make. If thats not it, you will have to trace wires until you find it, never a fun passtime. I wrap my bars in rubber tape first time I take them apart for something, for just such an occasion. Good Luck.

 

Thanks,
Already did that except I just reran all my control wiring through the handlebars (wrapped and w/rubber bushings around the sanded until smooth holes), and if I disconnect the upper wiring harness to take all my wiring out of the picture it still blows a fuse. If you look at the fuse box the kill switch circut is on one side (grey wire) and the ignition system power is on the other (red w/black) with the 15A Fuse connecting and providing power to the ignition system circut. My problem is the ignition cylinder. Can't figure out whats cooking it. If i cut the ignition cylinder off and jump all 3 wires together, simulating the ignition cylinder being turned to run (key turned all the way) I dont blow the fuse and the bike will start right up. Thanks for the comments guys. Any ideas are welcome.

 

Ok, you bypassed the ignition by tying the wires together and you did not blow the fuse correct? It sounds to me like something inside the ignition is shorted.

 

yea, but this is the 2nd time this has happened, and i have no idea why it is happening. I'm sure youc an understand the aggrivation. I can think of no cause.

 

Please recheck the wires that you tied together. If I'm not mistaken, I believe you screw three wires to the ignition (terminal lead) correct? It maybe one of those wires is bare and arching to ground somewhere. Your switch may not be bad.

 

Ok, lets try this: 1) Middle wire goes from ignition directly to the Battery. There is 15 amp fuse that also ties in , but that is for a security system so it should not affect. 2) Left wire should go to the Accessory Fuse 15 amp. 3) Right wire should go to the Ignition Fuse 15 amp, but it also branches off and goes to the Starter Relay. Also, after going to the Ignition Fuse, a wire on the opposite side of Fuse continues to the Kill switch. Now you say the Ignition Fuse is the one that keeps blowing correct? If so, again the likely culprit is the wire that goes to the Kill switch. Reason is; where the wire leaves the ignition and splits with one side going towards the Starter relay then anything grounding along that path would fry the relay. With that being said, your logical source would be something after the ignition fuse path which is blowing that fuse only and not affecting the starter relay. Man I hope I haven't confused you.... God I need a beer already and it's 7:40... In the morning.

 

LOL, I was thinking about 4 fingers of scotch. Trust me im following you, your right for the most part. 3 Wires from ignition switch: 1. RED power from battery via the 30A breaker, 2. RED w/black to 15A ignition breaker, the otherside of the breaker is the gray wire runing to the kill switch, other side of the kill switch is a white w/brack runing to the coil and starter relay and lean angle senser and voes- after voes it goes to ground ofcourse, 3. RED W/Gray which is all the signals/headlight/speedo. Everything works if i short the Red W/black to the Red W/gray when i turn the key. just over 12.25V according to my multimeter for both leads. So my voltages seem good, I just dont know how its shorting within the switch, Or why. This is the 2nd switch this has happened to. I think i'm just going to replace it again... and hope it holds up. All ^^^ is from memory too. I have pulled ever wire on the bike and tested eack one for short against the ground and looked for soft/crushed/opens and burned spots. dont know what else to do.

 

Man I hate to see you spend more money on another ignition switch. Something has to be causing this. If you are certain you have no wires loose or grounded along the path, then really you have no alternatives.