thanks for the clarification

i just went for a little log run without autotune, the result was a pvv file. would it be correct to assume i only get csv logs from logging autotune runs?

is it possible to make csv logs without autotuning ?

 

The pvv files are created during an autotune run. To create the csv file, go to datalogging and set up the values you want to log. Then go into gauges and hit Start Log.

 

1. What did I do wrong this time?
2. Tried justdennis's decel pop changes, and they did nothing for me and the bike did not want to idle....at all. So took those tweeks out and went back to the ve tables and added 5% (fuel) to all cells in the zero throttle position. Much better results. However, these changes got me in trouble with my files..... So back now to 1.
So I had an autotune file which I retrieved in winpv and made the above changes to. Sent it back to the device, but it would not flash to the ecm.
I'm guessing the file came out of winpv as a pvv file. You have to be able to tweek an autotuned file and put it back in the ecm. Thanks, Kranky in ky.

 

So what parameters do others use in the 6 field gauges screen on the PV??? I currently have

Engine Temp / Fuel Eco Instant

Baro / Fuel Eco Trip A

Fr Adapt fuel / Rr Adapt fuel


I'm not sure the last 2 are the best. Anyone have better suggestions for gauges? My map is open loop so no point in the closed loop integrator fields.

 

I like to run engine temp, fron and rear knock, MAP, intake air temp, and rpm. I'm fine tuning some knock issues in the 3-4.5K 90+ map areas right now and those are the most helpful to me right now. That's what I love about this thing, when my needs change my gauges can change with them.

 

My tune is as close to 0 knock as its going to get. Once the weather gets warmer I think it would be useful to display the front & rear knock fields for making adjustments to the new "spark advance by temp tables". But if you had no knock issues whatsoever, what fields would you use in place of the front & rear knock gauges?

 

Good advice. You'll also get better gas mileage by keeping the rpm's up there a little. Running below 23/2400 rpms in 6th will keep you jumping up into the 60 and 70 kPa cells at the slightest twist of the throttle. 2500 rpms will help you stay in the 40 50 kPa cells during cruising.

Also running it in the low 2000's in 6th it will be prone to more knock events if not dialed in spot on. These bikes really need to stay above 2500 rpms, they just seem to like it there and higher.

 

02 voltages might be a good one to watch ocassionally. Over time they degrade or become sluggish.

 

Persoanlly I like the conservative approach. Sometimes as little as a 1/2 a degree will cause a 2* retard. There's no need to pull 2 right away if all you needed was say .5. I look at the data log. If the spreadsheet shows it pulled 4 degrees, I pull out 2. If it pulled 2, I pull out 1. Once the table is at the verge of pinging in most areas then I back the table down 3 degrees.

 

If I wasn't chasing a specific event I would probably keep the gauges the same accept for the knock, maybe just play with a couple of other options or move to a four gauge setup.