89 fxr ignition/coil issue(s)
#1
89 fxr ignition/coil issue(s)
Greetings,
I have totally rewired my 89 fxr ignition..Harness, rotor, sensor, plug wires, module..All stock..SE Coil # 31653-97.
I have been getting misfiring and have not been able to time it.
My rpms (using electronic timing light, no tach on bike) were crazy..jumping from 1300 to 2500 and everywhere inbetween..I pulled and tested my brand new SE coil per the service manual directions and am good across the primary (range 2.5 - 3.1, actual 2.6 ohms). I checked the secondary ( range 11,250-13,750, actual ZERO ohms and no continuity).
I have confirmed that the coil is the reccommended coil for the bike, I have double checked wiring to the primary and all seems right...Yet the secondary tests as no good.
I assume I could have gotten a bad coil straight out of the pack (wouldn't be a Moco first) but was hoping to get some advice here.
FYI: Testing was performed using two different Fluke muti-meters.
Timing light accuracy was checked on my 2011 FLHX and was dead on with my tach.
Now, to close out with a timing question...On a dual fire system, how can rpms be accurately read through a plug wire when 50% of the spark being detected is 'wasted' spark?
Thanks for any advice/input you may be able to offer,
D
I have totally rewired my 89 fxr ignition..Harness, rotor, sensor, plug wires, module..All stock..SE Coil # 31653-97.
I have been getting misfiring and have not been able to time it.
My rpms (using electronic timing light, no tach on bike) were crazy..jumping from 1300 to 2500 and everywhere inbetween..I pulled and tested my brand new SE coil per the service manual directions and am good across the primary (range 2.5 - 3.1, actual 2.6 ohms). I checked the secondary ( range 11,250-13,750, actual ZERO ohms and no continuity).
I have confirmed that the coil is the reccommended coil for the bike, I have double checked wiring to the primary and all seems right...Yet the secondary tests as no good.
I assume I could have gotten a bad coil straight out of the pack (wouldn't be a Moco first) but was hoping to get some advice here.
FYI: Testing was performed using two different Fluke muti-meters.
Timing light accuracy was checked on my 2011 FLHX and was dead on with my tach.
Now, to close out with a timing question...On a dual fire system, how can rpms be accurately read through a plug wire when 50% of the spark being detected is 'wasted' spark?
Thanks for any advice/input you may be able to offer,
D
#2
#3
Hi, Dalton
Some of the things you say do not make much sense to me:
1) Your Secondary coil is reading Zero and No Continuity?
- Zero Ohms means Short Contact, continuity is present
- No Continuity means Infinite Resistance (Open)
- If your coil was indeed Open or Shorted then you wouldn't be able to start the bike at all.
2.) Your RPMs are fluctuating between 1300 and 2500? Can you hear the engine revving up, or you go by the readings alone?
You have done extensive re-wiring of the bike, and my guess is you've left out some Grounding connection, this is why your readings are off and unreliable.
As for the misfiring - that can be due to number of different reasons. I would first check/ adjust the timing plate with the CAM sensor, then Spark Plugs. Fuel delivery and air supply can also cause misfiring. Then there is the matter of some intermittent connection to the Ignition Module, Coils or Spark Plugs.
Some of the things you say do not make much sense to me:
1) Your Secondary coil is reading Zero and No Continuity?
- Zero Ohms means Short Contact, continuity is present
- No Continuity means Infinite Resistance (Open)
- If your coil was indeed Open or Shorted then you wouldn't be able to start the bike at all.
2.) Your RPMs are fluctuating between 1300 and 2500? Can you hear the engine revving up, or you go by the readings alone?
You have done extensive re-wiring of the bike, and my guess is you've left out some Grounding connection, this is why your readings are off and unreliable.
As for the misfiring - that can be due to number of different reasons. I would first check/ adjust the timing plate with the CAM sensor, then Spark Plugs. Fuel delivery and air supply can also cause misfiring. Then there is the matter of some intermittent connection to the Ignition Module, Coils or Spark Plugs.
#4
Hi, Dalton
Some of the things you say do not make much sense to me:
1) Your Secondary coil is reading Zero and No Continuity?
- Zero Ohms means Short Contact, continuity is present
- No Continuity means Infinite Resistance (Open)
- If your coil was indeed Open or Shorted then you wouldn't be able to start the bike at all.
2.) Your RPMs are fluctuating between 1300 and 2500? Can you hear the engine revving up, or you go by the readings alone?
You have done extensive re-wiring of the bike, and my guess is you've left out some Grounding connection, this is why your readings are off and unreliable.
As for the misfiring - that can be due to number of different reasons. I would first check/ adjust the timing plate with the CAM sensor, then Spark Plugs. Fuel delivery and air supply can also cause misfiring. Then there is the matter of some intermittent connection to the Ignition Module, Coils or Spark Plugs.
Some of the things you say do not make much sense to me:
1) Your Secondary coil is reading Zero and No Continuity?
- Zero Ohms means Short Contact, continuity is present
- No Continuity means Infinite Resistance (Open)
- If your coil was indeed Open or Shorted then you wouldn't be able to start the bike at all.
2.) Your RPMs are fluctuating between 1300 and 2500? Can you hear the engine revving up, or you go by the readings alone?
You have done extensive re-wiring of the bike, and my guess is you've left out some Grounding connection, this is why your readings are off and unreliable.
As for the misfiring - that can be due to number of different reasons. I would first check/ adjust the timing plate with the CAM sensor, then Spark Plugs. Fuel delivery and air supply can also cause misfiring. Then there is the matter of some intermittent connection to the Ignition Module, Coils or Spark Plugs.
Last edited by DaltonHD; 12-08-2011 at 07:16 PM. Reason: mis-information
#5
Looks like you have set the FLUKE to wrong range.
Anyways, leaving the readings aside, what is the real problem you are experiencing? Wrong idle RPM? Misfiring?
When the misfiring happen? Does it happen once engine is warmed up? Or happens during hard accelleration?
The scooter is pretty old, when was the last time you checked compression and valves?
Anyways, when asking for help the more details you can provide about the circumstances of the problem the easier it would be for somebody to help you.
Good luck!
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