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1988 sportster no spark

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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 10:12 PM
  #1  
Darin Edwards's Avatar
Darin Edwards
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Default 1988 sportster no spark

1988 883/1200 Conversion. Rigid frame.
I've had zero problems with the electrical on my bike. Until now!
I have no spark. I have checked for any shorts/ bare wires. I found some wear and fixed with either electrical tape or shrink tape. Still no spark! Checked ignition module with MMeter. Readings appear normal. Tested plugs- no spark. Tried to check plug wires but not exactly 100% how to due it. I did look online and followed video. Readings appear normal.... But still no spark.
I have two 12v metal fuses(retangular metal box type with two male connectors on top) could these be the problem?
I checked my Spyke-super compression dual fire static timing visually but don't see any problems there! Can any one advise on how to chech to see if functioning properly?!
I am going to replace my plug wires and plugs!
Is there anything else I can possible do to rectify my no spark problem.
Thank you all in advance for your help.
I'm including pic of bike
 
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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 05:53 AM
  #2  
CZshooter's Avatar
CZshooter
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From: Central Pennsylvania, USA
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Turn the key on--do you have power to the coil? If so, then coil or ignition module. Replace the coil, if that don't fix it then ignition module....

The metal boxes are breakers, (half inch by 1 inch) if you have power to the coil, they are ok. If you have a short, you'll hear a "click" from one of them as soon as you turn the key on...and have no power at the coil.

Both plug wires typically don't go bad at same time, usually you'll get a miss or crappy running engine.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 08:11 AM
  #3  
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mrfikser
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From: Maryland near DC
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do a resistance check between the coil and the spark controller (the small wire on the coil) to do the check hook one end of the meter set to ohms on each end of the wire to the coil after removing the wire from the coil the reading should read close to zero but not open.. you say you checked the controller so ti should be good..next I would pull the controller out and look behind it, there is a bell shaped sensor there with a slot cut in it, make sure that bell is tight (it has a bolt in the middle) and that it is installed in the right position (they are keyed to the right position) if it moves you will get no spark... if the wires are good and the bell is correctly installed it is almost always the controller and on rare occurasnce the coil..the coil can be tested witht the ohm meter (the manual gives specs for the test)..the only other thing to check is the kill switch, which if I remember right grounds out the coil, so if it is bad or has a short to ground between it and the coil will cause your issue.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2015 | 01:45 PM
  #4  
Darin Edwards's Avatar
Darin Edwards
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I checked power to coil.. It is good. I checked primary and secondary both seem to have Omz Primary reads 3.1 secondary reads 11 when I check between both I get a zero reading. One wire to primary and second one at end of plug wire. I get a 0 reading. . Hopefully I did this correctly.QUOTE=CZshooter;14397881]Turn the key on--do you have power to the coil? If so, then coil or ignition module. Replace the coil, if that don't fix it then ignition module....

The metal boxes are breakers, (half inch by 1 inch) if you have power to the coil, they are ok. If you have a short, you'll hear a "click" from one of them as soon as you turn the key on...and have no power at the coil.

Both plug wires typically don't go bad at same time, usually you'll get a miss or crappy running engine.[/QUOTE]
 
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