With a completely stock bike, adding the Power Commander unit with a "Stock Bike" map. What would be the advantage to doing this? How does one know what the factory fuel/air mixtures are compared to the "Stock Bike" map? How do you know whether to richen or lean it incertain rpm ranges without puting it on a dyno? I don't care to have anymore power, just want my bike to run smooth, cool, and trouble free.

 

Good question sims5. I started out with a stock configuration and a PCIII with the stock map. The immediate and most important benefit is a cooler running bike. With this setup, as long as the bike runs good what else could you ask for? There is tons of good information in past threads on this subject. I’m sure that there are more knowledgeable people on this forum than me that will go into as much detail as you can stand.

 

The map for a stock Harley will richen the mixture some. The factory tuning is very lean for emissions reasons. Your bike will run smoother and cooler. It's a great way to start any modification project.

Jake

 

One thing youdon't want to forget is, if you install a PC3 is to set the throttle position values. If you don't it could effect the way the bike idles, and make sure you do both the 0 and 100% values. The nice thing about the PC3 is if you think it's not right you can always unplug it and go right back to the stock ECM settings until you can fix it or have it looked at. There's alot of info on this site just don't let it overwelm you. There are alot of people here going thru the same things you are and we try to help each other.

 

OK, food for thought, why does eveyone want to be so rich? When I was in the car dyno tuning profession, we always had to lean everything out, the manufactures subscribed to the old adage, for mass produce engines, lets be safe,"if were going to be off let's be too rich". For guys that raced factory "stock" cars in "stock" class organized competition,we had to lean them out for competition. When I retuned our used '00'HDstage I 95" Ultra, witha DFO tuner, it wastuned waytoo rich by previous tuner, I leaned it out for better drivability,more performance and economy. Now withour turbo Ultra, it idles at approx14.5:1 A/Fandwe cruisein thehigh 14s, low 15s and getting 40+ MPH with a turbo 108" engine with two aboard. We cruise with other baggers, some stockand we are the last ones to need fuel, is everyonetuning using the, "lets richen it up to cover up other problems" routine? Granted, at wide open throttle anaturally aspirated engine should bein the approx 13.0:1 range but at idle and cruise, should be in the 14s or 15s or something else is probablywrong. Keep in mind, a 4 stroke engine is actually richened up for EPAto 14.7:1 for idle and cruise for emissions purposes toprevent apolutant called NOX and for vehicles with catalytic converters, otherwise theycould and should run more lean, likeIdo.

 

The reason I'm asking the questions is I'm trying to learn as much as I can about my bike. I just recently bought a 05 EFI Road King that was completely stock. Didn't like the exhaust sound, and not having any extra cashto spend on different pipes. I then punched out the centers of the baffles to about 1". I then started the bike on my lift and let it idle for about 15 minutes and then "played" with the thottle to hear the sound. I looked down at the pipes and they were both glowing an orange colorcoming out of the heads. I immediately shut it off and started researching and asking questions here. I received alot of feedback from another post and am just trying to figure all of this out so I can sleep better, if you kow what I mean. Some of the posts said that my bike was extremely lean and was in danger of doing some damage. Other people said don't worry about it, alot of bikes have glowing pipes.

 

If I install a PCIII and don't have it dyno'd will my Air/Fuel rates be ok with the appropriate download from fuelmoto? I've never seen the PCIII info that is available when you view it on your computer. Can you test ride the bike and then bring that info back up to see where the Air/Fuel numbers are? Such as a dyno test but on the road. Don't mean to be dumb, but I've read about everything I can find here and still a little confused. I realize a dyno would be the best for optimum performance but as I've said before, the stock power is find for me. I really only want smooth, cool, and reliable.

 

I installed the PC III from fuel moto with Jamie loading a map for me, I used that map unitl I got to the 1000 mile mark, and went in for a dyno. The first run was the canned map put in by Fuel Moto, and the seventh run was what the dyno tuner tuned things to. I can say that the canned map was pretty close, what the tuner did for me was smooth out the A/F graph. I was a tad lean down low and a tad rich above 4K.