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idea to solve ironhead slipping

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Old 04-24-2007, 02:39 AM
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Default idea to solve ironhead slipping

Ok heres an idea. I have a 68 xlch. When the kick starter cam gear rotates, the teeth mate up with the large set of teeth on the edge of the starter clutch gear which has a spring on the back of it to provide pressure against the clutch when the opening in the cam allows it to be released. The starter clutch gear(not the starter clutch) has another set of teeth on the face of it which mate up with the ring gear(or the starter clutch as it is referred to in the haynes manual). The ring gear(aka starter clutch), is the small flat gear that is riveted to the back of the clutch basket that has a small set of teeth on its face to mesh with the starter clutch gear's small set of teeth. Essentially when the cam gear creates the torque on the starter clutch gear, the teeth mesh with those of the ring gear and rotates the basket which rotates the primary chain and engine sprocket to start the bike.
> Now someone please correct me if i'm wrong on this part: It seems that when the clutch is fully assembled the starter clutch gear always remains in contact with the ring gear.
If that is true, then can't the problems of clutch slipping be eliminating by welding, epoxying, riveting, or otherwise permanently attatching the starter clutch gear and the ring gear together? Or does the starter clutch gear actually move back and fork somewhat on its bushing with the spring on the back of it? This is my first harley but I know a few guys on here know these things better than they know themselves so anyone with more experience let me know whether or not I concluded correctly here concerning my proposed solution.
 
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Old 04-24-2007, 09:54 AM
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Default RE: idea to solve ironhead slipping

> Now someone please correct me if i'm wrong on this part: It seems that when the clutch is fully assembled the starter clutch gear always remains in contact with the ring gear.
If that is true, then can't the problems of clutch slipping be eliminating by welding, epoxying, riveting, or otherwise permanently attatching the starter clutch gear and the ring gear together? Or does the starter clutch gear actually move back and fork somewhat on its bushing with the spring on the back of it?

The parts are as follows:
Crank Gear..... located on the kick start shaft
Crank Gear Cam Plate.... located on the outside face of the Crank Gear
Starter
Clutch Gear... located on the Clutch Sprocket Spacer (this has the spring behind it)
Starter Clutch.... braded to the backside of the Clutch Hub Drum

Here is what happens:
When you push the K/S pedal down the crank gear rotates clockwise (looking at it from the left side) and the opening in the cam plate allows the spring to push the starter clutch gear outwards toward the starter clutch. The 2 gears engage and the engine turns over.
After
the engine starts, you let the K/S pedal return to it's home position. As this happens, the crank gear cam plate catches the spring loaded starter clutch gear and moves it inward, away from the starter clutch. This compresses the spring and is the running position.
So, the spring is there to assist the engagement of the starter clutch gear with the starter clutch, but the cam plate returns the starter clutch gear back away from the clutch for ALL CONDITIONS except for starting.
The gear is not engaged all of the time as you think. It slides back and forth on the clutch sprocket spacer. The bushing resides inside the gear of course.
The condition of the bushing and the spacer have a great deal to do with the Sportster famed 'Knee Injury' fall through when starting. Thick oil on a cold morning adds to the chance of this happening.
So no, you cannot 'weld or epoxy' the gear in place.
Hope this explains it better........pg
 
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