kickstart might be old skool but it kinda sucks
#1
kickstart might be old skool but it kinda sucks
just bought my first kick start bike only, I know it takes alittle getting used to, but is there any pointers on how to make this a little less of a chore? Maybe setting the points, jetting the carbs, type of oil weight, and what is the idea temp outside to kick in? I live in northern kentucky soright now the temp is around 40-45.
thanks
thanks
#2
RE: kickstart might be old skool but it kinda sucks
I have been there, I feel for ya man!
My advice is to make sure it is tuned up and runs like a top. Including ignition comonents and carb. My guess is 20W50 may make it a little easier when it is cold. just my 2 cents. I'll let the real pros take over now.
Good luck!!!!
My advice is to make sure it is tuned up and runs like a top. Including ignition comonents and carb. My guess is 20W50 may make it a little easier when it is cold. just my 2 cents. I'll let the real pros take over now.
Good luck!!!!
#3
#4
RE: kickstart might be old skool but it kinda sucks
What weight oil depends on what year model you have. If it is 1974 or earlier then 50wt is correct for the winter. For summer you want to use 60wt. You can get that at a Harley shop.
On older Sportys (older than 1977) be sure to use the same oil in the engine, primary, and transmission because the oils do mix.
If the bike is newer than a 1978 then 20-50wt is OK to use.
Kick starting in the winter is good exercise. If you can get the bike properly tuned then it is going to start much easier than if it needs some work done on it.......pg
On older Sportys (older than 1977) be sure to use the same oil in the engine, primary, and transmission because the oils do mix.
If the bike is newer than a 1978 then 20-50wt is OK to use.
Kick starting in the winter is good exercise. If you can get the bike properly tuned then it is going to start much easier than if it needs some work done on it.......pg
#5
#6
RE: kickstart might be old skool but it kinda sucks
OK....a 1973 with S&S. Good carb.
Does the bike start easier once it is warmed up? If the answer is yes to that question, then what you are facing is nothing more than an ironhead in the winter. If the answer is no, then some tune up work is in order. It should always start within the first or second kick when warmed up.
Since this is your first K/S machine, know that a Sportster can be difficult to crank in the cold weather. There is a certain technique to starting one, and I have not been able to put that into words.
Just keep practicing and note what you are doing if it suddenly fires up easier than normal. Each machine is a little different. On mine I kick it through 3 or 4 times in the winter with the full choke on and the key off.
Then I turn on the key and kick with the choke still on. I kick until a get a spitback through the carb. That is all I can hope for in cold weather and it means the fuel has finally gotten into the manifold and combustion chambers (somewhat anyway). (Unless you get a spitback or hear it go 'pop' the bike is not going to start because there is no fuel getting into the manifold yet.)
After the spitback, I go to 1/2 choke and see what happens. If I do not get any more spitbacks within the next few cranks, then I am back to full choke.
In cold weather it is very difficult to get the fuel/air mixture into the chamber and at the same time you are fighting the heavy weight oil which prevents you from obtaining a swift kick.
While you are kicking though, be very careful about the famous Sportster fall through of the kick lever. This happens because the oil is cold and thick. The gears can fail to engage although you are sure they are engaged.
You jump up on the lever to give it the most powerful kick you can deliver and the damn thing falls through without any resistance.
The result of this can hurt you badly. It is very difficult to detect before it happens and almost impossible to prevent, except tp make sure the gears are engaged.
The hyper extended knee is no fun at all. The last bout I had with it 5 years back left me on crutches for 3 months and limping another 3. Not to mention the doctor bills that went with it. Good luck, and just work on the technique further......pg
Does the bike start easier once it is warmed up? If the answer is yes to that question, then what you are facing is nothing more than an ironhead in the winter. If the answer is no, then some tune up work is in order. It should always start within the first or second kick when warmed up.
Since this is your first K/S machine, know that a Sportster can be difficult to crank in the cold weather. There is a certain technique to starting one, and I have not been able to put that into words.
Just keep practicing and note what you are doing if it suddenly fires up easier than normal. Each machine is a little different. On mine I kick it through 3 or 4 times in the winter with the full choke on and the key off.
Then I turn on the key and kick with the choke still on. I kick until a get a spitback through the carb. That is all I can hope for in cold weather and it means the fuel has finally gotten into the manifold and combustion chambers (somewhat anyway). (Unless you get a spitback or hear it go 'pop' the bike is not going to start because there is no fuel getting into the manifold yet.)
After the spitback, I go to 1/2 choke and see what happens. If I do not get any more spitbacks within the next few cranks, then I am back to full choke.
In cold weather it is very difficult to get the fuel/air mixture into the chamber and at the same time you are fighting the heavy weight oil which prevents you from obtaining a swift kick.
While you are kicking though, be very careful about the famous Sportster fall through of the kick lever. This happens because the oil is cold and thick. The gears can fail to engage although you are sure they are engaged.
You jump up on the lever to give it the most powerful kick you can deliver and the damn thing falls through without any resistance.
The result of this can hurt you badly. It is very difficult to detect before it happens and almost impossible to prevent, except tp make sure the gears are engaged.
The hyper extended knee is no fun at all. The last bout I had with it 5 years back left me on crutches for 3 months and limping another 3. Not to mention the doctor bills that went with it. Good luck, and just work on the technique further......pg
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