My restoration is complete except for the clutch adjustment. I've got everything together and running very well but my clutch is slipping when I roll on the throttle. My question is if readjusting the cable and clutch release settings aren't getting it the next thing is spring pressure. Do I need more or less spring pressure? Do I turn adjusting nuts in for more pressure or out?Appreciate it. All plates, disks and release mechanism are new if this helps.

 

harley B......
Turning the six nuts inward compresses the two coil springs that lie inside the 'Releasing Disc' (outer plate). This puts more pressure on the clutch, thus makes it more resistent to slipping.
The correct dimension of properly adjusted spring tension is this:
11/32 inch between the outer face of the releasing disc and the outer face of the outer drive plate. See the illustration (4-6B) I have attached.
BUT,
A much better thing to do is to modify your clutch to be equal to a 1974 or later model.
The big advantage with that is two things:
1) The six nuts are tightened down against the (6) sleeves (a.k.a. spacers) you need to make and install.
2) The 'wobble of the releasing disc is no longer an issue because tighten against the (6) sleeves (spacers) it is automatically lined up in a flat plane.

I did this modification to my Sportster in 1974 when Harley decided to put it on the '74 models. It is fairly easy to do.
All you need to do is to make 6 sleeves.
1) Each sleeve (spacer) has to have an inside diameter that will slip over the studs.
2) Each sleeve (spacer) has to have an outside diameter that will go through the holes in the steel clutch plates.
3) Each sleeve (spacer) must be the same length.
Harley offered the sleeves (spacers) in 3 different lengths (See the 4-6B illustration)
I just made mine the middle choice of 1.490 inches. (Note I corrected HD's typo of 1.440)
This modification is well worth doing..............pg


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PG is 100% on target....the ID of the spacers is 1/4....you can buy the set of 6 from JP cycle for 2.99....this fix the SPRING adjustment issue....however, you'll still have to adjust the clutch pull which is simple....first slacken everything, then snug down the adjuster SCREW. Do not tighten the lock nut. Now tighten the clutch cable adjuster until there is essentially no free play.....now go back and loosen and snug up the adjuster screw again.....back it out 1/4 a turn and tighten the lock nut.....should be done.....

Any other opinions on this????? This is from my OLD Clymer manual.

 

fergerburger......
All I can add to what you are describing is this:
What is being adjusted here is called 'Adjusting the Clutch Release Mechanism' and is a very important item to do, and to do it correctly.
Some people just remove (or increase) the clutch cable slack at the lever and that is wrong.
The proper slack is obtained by doing the adjustment you describe, and the correct slack at the lever is obtained as part of this adjustment.........pg

 

I really appreciate the response guys. I have the sleeves you are talking about pg.I knew they did not go in my 73 so I removed them and tried everything by theoriginal manual. I'll open everything back up and install the sleeves. Thanks again guys.

 

Yes, use those sleeves. That will mean you just tighten down all of the nuts tight against the plate. No aligning of the pressure plate is needed then.........pg