Hi guys , so my buddie buys this bike and after a strip down and top end rebuild he starts putting it back together.

He takes it to get a new clutch, new tires and starter.

I then did some tin, tank and other metal work then I painted it for him.

He then switched out the point for electronic. He did not replace the coil therefore the coil burnt up. But now he has a new electronic coil. Anyway the bike will not start. He sees voltage at Coil but no spark at plugs.

I have an FXR with an EVO motor so I know little about the 1000CC engine.

I think the coil may be bad.

What should he be checking for. The motor turns over but will not fire. It has fuel.

Pic of bike:

Thanks for any help you might provide.

 

What ignition system was installed ? Thing that there is voltage in ignition coil doesn't mean that there will be spark. Points or electronic system just "short" other end of ignition coil to ground and you got spark simple as that.

 

so how can I tell if the electronic ignition coil is good or not? Should I not get spark at the plug if the coil is good?

 

you have to use either a meter or a 12 volt test light, just like you hopefully used to check for voltage. You should always have voltage on 1 of the wires going to the coil, but the other should turn on and off as the engine spins. If you have a test light, just check for a flash as the engine turns over with the starter motor. If you have a volt meter, i'd suggest the following. Remove the spark plugs and jack up the rear wheel so you can spin it, then put the bike in a high gear so you can spin the engine with the rear wheel. as you spin the engine, the voltage should go from 12 to 0 as the ignition breaker opens and closes (or your light should flash). If not, probably bad ignition breaker. as far as the coil being good or not, you should be able to use your meter to check the resistance across the leads. Also, make sure he set the ignition timing when he changed out the breaker, it should have come with instructions on how to do so.

 

i would suggest you also check ignition module as that could have burned out also as the module is also tied into ignition system also good luck by the way i would have kept the point system as points will always get you home



live hard die fast

 

Good job on the body! I'm just gonna start from scratch keeping in mind the ignition was changed over which complicates. Did you have the same handlebar configuration prior to the starting problem? How did you get around the wiring for the engine run/stop & start button? Dunno, seems like a "piece of the scheamtic" is missing from the pictures. Anyhow, see the tests below for battery and coil tests; can't give tests for the AM electronic module conversion, though, don't know or have it. The points-to-electronic changeover correctly installed theoretically would not cause the coil to "burn up" since it's job is to time the firing. If you think the issue is the ignition, I would start with the conversion itself first. Everything installed and timed correctly? Second, did you check the fire ring clearance when you had the heads off? Fire ring is the raised portion on top of cylinder that fits into a recess in the head and, along with head gasket crush, seal for compression. Do a compression/leakdown test: will also check this and for valve sealing (see push rods q? below). If the clearance is off, you have no/little compression=no start. Check with head assembled without gasket installed by placing a .010" feeler gauge between them and pull out. You should feel resistance and a "clunk" when you pull it out. If not, the ring needs machined to spec. if it's too high and not compressing the head gasket (heads and cylinder is sitting on the fire ring leaking past gasket). Push rods adjusted correctly? While rotating the engine, raise each valve and check the alternate other one= if front intake is open, rear intake will be closed, etc. Quick check method: the closed valves push rod should spin 3/4 around with a flick of the thumb & forefinger; more or less is too tight or too loose. Should have no up & down movement.
Note: wiring colors may not match so improvise! Key on=not cranking or started but ign turned to "run". DVOM=Multimeter
1. BATTERY VOLTAGE WITH KEY ON___________VDC (LOADED BATTERY VOLTAGE CHECK) DVOM LEADS TO BATTERY TERMINALS MUST HAVE 12-14.7 VDC

2. POWER TO COIL________VDC
REMOVE W/BLK WIRE TO RIGHT-SIDE OF COIL DVOM RED LEAD TO W/BLK WIRE BLK LEAD TO GROUND SHOULD READ BATTERY VOLTAGE {REHOOK W/BLK WIRE}

3. POWER FROM COIL_______VDC
RED LEAD TO PINK WIRE TO LEFT-SIDE OF COIL BLK LEAD TO GROUND SHOULD READ BATTERY VOLTAGE.

4. COIL RESISTANCE: PRIMARY_________ SHOULD READ 4.7-5.7 OHMS W/BLK TO PINK
SECONDARY_________16K-20K OHMS W/BLK TO S/P CABLE END

Should be enough to keep ya busy for a bit! Hope this helped. Be nice to see that bike on the road!

 

Good post Rob. I am going to run through those tests on my 72 XLCH tomorrow just to get a baseline. The electrics always kick my butt.

Pat

 

If you have voltage on coil your run/stop switch is working.. As robzuc97 wrote do those measurements. If you have original wiring you can follow it by colors. There is white wire coming from ignition lock-> run/stop switch -> ignition coil there should be 12V when ignition is turned on. As robzuc97 wrote other end of ignition coil there is wire (white with black stripe?) that is going to ignition module or points. Aftermarket electronic ignition needs 12V to operate and it is usually taken from ignition coil, that white wire what comes from run/stop switch. Check that. You can limit fault in electronics or points by bypassing them. If you remove that W/BL wire from ignition coil you can test if you coil is ok.
Remove sparkplugs or use extra plugs... hook them back to ignition wires and place plugs so that they have contact cylinderhead or they are grounded.
Take "jumpwire" and keep it handy, turn iginiton on, short that iginition coil terminal witch were connected into that W/BL wire to ground. There should be spark if plugs and coils are ok! If you have spark ignition module is damaged, usually they are protected by short but **** happeds..

 

THANKS GUYS! I really appreciate all of the time you have invested in helping us out.

Will run thru these test and let you know. Hopefully it will be this weekend.

later

 

If the conversion you installed has the ignition module, the troubleshooting steps I described may not work, I wasn't thinking about that type of conversion.