My 2018 RGU was built in Sep 2017. Therefore, it is identical to the 2017 models. Coming up on 40k miles, the bike runs and runs.

Keep it stock, take care of it, and you are very unlikely to have any problems. Except of course for the primary vent. You'll almost surely need that.

 

None of my riding buddies have a problem with their M8 and many are rocking the earliest 107 M8. However, none are into performance mods except me and I am already losing sleep over the 128 big bore kit from SE, hence the reason for my concern of potential sumping/transfer as I have read that most sumping problem comes from stage 4 and above M8s... upon reading the answers from the good folks here I think you guys are partially right, I’ll probably just install the 22XE cam, up the comp to 10.75:1 and just ride it like I stole it until something blew and when that happen I’ll just rebuild the engine with 128” kit and install all the necessary preventative measures/fix for the sumping/transfer.

 

Try $81.000 after tax....LOL!!! It’s insane here....I spent most of my money for the bike just a few weeks ago hence the reason for wanting cheap redneck fix 😂

 

The newest oil pump is the best solution for sumping, along with venting the crankcase to atmosphere. That said, if you are doing a big bore kit, ALWAYS check that the oiling jets are not leaking and are torqued correctly.

As far as the transmission fluid transfer issue, I offer the following advice.
1) Don't waste your money on the "fat rod" fix, it is not a 100% fix for all M8's that experience the transfer issue. It did not work on mine, and I proved that by using a UV dye kit.
2) The vent kit is also not a 100% fix for all M8 bikes. (As noted by a few folks across various online forums, and one person I know personally.)

My 2018 RG CVO did not experience the transfer issue until it had about 3k miles on it. After trying the "fat rod" fix and realizing it didn't work, and BEFORE HD came out with the vent kit. I went a different route after understanding how the transmission is supposed to vent pressure. As well as watching a video posted showing how the trans fluid interacts with the trans side cover.

Without getting wordy and technical.
Make your original trans cover, that looks like this.


And make it looks like this.


In essence, trans fluid cannot transfer thru the clutch push rod channel, if it cannot reach that level in the first place.

 

Can you take a pic of the whole cover, after mod ? I'm not quite sure what I'm seeing in the 2nd pic.

 

I cannot, sorry. I don't have anymore pics saved.

I installed my last modded trans cover on my brothers Ultra last month.

I have two trans covers that I need to put on the mill and modify, but I have way too many other non-motorcycle projects going on right now. (I also don't own a mill, I use my gunsmith's mill and he is currently backlogged with work.)

That said, look at the pics real carefully, it is pretty obvious the difference between stock and modified. Essentially, the concave portion of the trans cover is removed, and passages are cut to allow fluid an easier, non-restricted path to drain back into the transmission, instead of pooling up on the concave portion of the trans caver, thus, fluid will never rise to the height of the push rod channel, thus transfer cannot occur.

eta: I do not sell these nor do I do this mod to make extra money. Too much of a headache. I only do it for friends and family that have the problem as I am not "in business".

 

that is definitely interesting!!! Curious to know more details, the thinning on the flat section around the hole (previously concave part) looks like not something can be done with a simple dremel?

 

It can be done with a Dremel, if you are careful.

I have use of a mill, so that is what I used.

Here is another picture with an AIM clutch slave cylinder bolted to the trans cover.

 

Mine sumped with 36K on her, so it does happen in real life. Bike was down for 8 1/2 weeks waiting for parts, when the new oil pump was sent the 8 lob vane was missing...