It's been almost 3000 miles since I installed the 22XE and now I want to install my SE 55mm manifold and 5.5 injectors so finish building my engine and get it tuned.
Any tips or tools you got to make things easier, doesnt matter how small or big, by all means share a way.

This looks like a real pain in the ***, but it's the last thing I need to install on my bike for the engine, and I want to get to improving the tune for better acceleration and fuel economy.
I'm all ears.

 

I thought that it was pretty easy when I had the Fatboy. If I remember correctly, remove the fuel tank, air cleaner and throttle body. Then on the other side, either the horn or voltage regulator needs to be removed. I didn't use any special tools, just a long allen wrench with a ball end and a small pipe to give me leverage. And of course unplug what needs to be, and transfer the fuel rail and sensor.

 

I've been watching people do install videos and I'm just looking for any tip or trick someone discovered that makes things easier.
I know the M8 Softails have a voltage regulator where the Horn is on the Baggers.
A lot of people seem to have an issue with getting the manifold out from between the cylinders and I'm wondering mostly if someone figured out how to deal with that more easily.
I'm going to hit up Harbor Freight for some Ball Allen long sockets, and was wondering anyone had any tool they used that made things easier.
I've got a T spinner handle, and long hex bits, mini ratchet, and some other little tools, I'm wondering if I missed something.

 

From what I remember, I just lifted it up and out.

 

I have chased intake leaks on the EVO and Twin Cam bikes I owned & done this many many times. M8 however is my first fuel injected motor so follow the book would be my advice on injectors & sensor R&R.

Re: the manifold seals, that’s the tricky part on reassembly. You’re doing three alignments at once, the front and rear “spigots” spaced evenly not tight on one and big gap on the other. Plus, the intake side where the throttle body mounts up, aligned up and down so the throttle body and then your air cleaner bolt back up easily. Loose assemble everything including the throttle body and air cleaner backing plate then gently start tightening the manifold seal flange screws keep an eye on that front to rear alignment.

I have an old set of “cut downs”, normal length Allens that I ground the short leg way down so that it just fits into the screw/ bolt socket, was vital for the LH side flange screws behind the horn area. The long ball ends for the RH side. This was in my EVO and Twin Cam days haven’t done this job on the M8.

Seal lube? I’d go with Vaseline and just a light coating will do it on the rubber seals and the manifold sealing surface common to those seals. These seals need to scoot easily along the manifold surface as you seat the metal rings with the screws. Also regarding the metal flange rings, check that they are flat if not replacements needed, also if I remember they are marked F & R they aren’t symmetrical. No silicone lubes might screw up the O2 sensors.

 

If they're 1/4" allen like Evos and Twin Cams, this might help you.

https://www.denniskirk.com/yost-perf...UN2ytf2ffBIYfs

I've also used 1/4" screwdriver bits and 1/4" wrench. Put the bit in the bolt with a magnet if you can't get your hands in there.




I've used some petro gel oring lube on one bike and dielectric grease on two others. Anything that won't swell the rubber seals is fine.

 

Is Dielectric grease ok? I was going to use that for installing the seals on both the flanges and the injectors just enough to make sure they slide in and there's a total seal.
I saw a tech do that in a video in something that I forget, but it was an engine part and was curious if that's ok to do on other kinds of seals.
I also have bicycle grease that I use for my brake and clutch lever, and my kickstand joint. It's good stuff for keeping out water and things from wearing. If the dielectric stuff is a no, would a light touch of park bike grease be a bad idea?
I actually dont have any vaseline around. Ofc I can just go grab a tube of it if It's really the best choice, no big deal.

 

I recently pulled the heads off my 2017 RGS and replaced the head gaskets. Getting the throttle body and intake off was not hard, seemed to extract fairly easily, but getting it back in seemed to be a problem. I ended up pulling the injectors, then mounting the TB & intake, and then installing the injectors. I had to pull the oil line that runs over the heads to do this, as I had already installed it. I didn't lube the intake seals, it didn't look like the old ones were lubed and I installed new ones. I did lube the O-rings on the injectors with dielectric lube. Lastly, I replaced the left side allen head bolts with hex flange bolts and used a dog bone on to torque them. I think the access to these allens is better on the M8 than it was on the TC's, but old habits die hard. Setting everything up loose with the AC backing plate is necessary to keep from having to loosen everything later.

 

Isn’t a bunny all ears by default?

if the tanks got to come off, do you fuel line tool? HF carries the kit if I just have to raise the tank, HF has a little air bag inflater stuff under and loose side and will bring it up over a inch
T handled Allen’s are great to have also.

 

“Is Dielectric grease ok?”

I'm paranoid about silicone affecting the O2 sensors, the dielectrics I’ve used for car stuff are all silicone type lubes.

other ideas, your bicycle lube if no silicone probably OK, again a “little dab will do ya” (Sparkey having a ‘60s Brylcream flashback) Another is dish soap/water mix but I don’t like alkaline stuff on aluminum and it dries too quick.