Here's a pic of the crank dot @ front tdc. Even tho it's an M8 it's same for tc.

 

This is how I do it. I stick my fingers in the lifter holes and feel the lifters moving. Sometimes you don't have the cam cover off, or you are cutting pushrods.

When you feel overlap (both lifters moving) on a specific cylinder, that piston is at TDC on the Exhaust Stroke. * In this position, the exhaust valve is just finishing its closing and the intake valve is just starting to open. Adjust the other cylinder .

​If you are sticking your finger in the holes to feel the lifters for the cylinder you intend to adjust, follow this sequence to be 100% sure:
​Watch the Intake Lifter: As you rotate the rear wheel (bike in 6th gear), watch the intake lifter go up and then all the way back down.
​Find the Peak: Once that intake lifter has bottomed out, continue rotating the engine a small amount further. You can use a straw or a plastic straw in the spark plug hole to feel the piston reach its highest point.
​The "Wiggle" Test: At this point, both lifters for that cylinder should be at their lowest point and should not move if you rock the rear wheel slightly back and forth. This is your TDC Compression—the "dead zone" where you can safely adjust your pushrods.

 

The dot on the crank gear lines up with the crank pin.. On TCs all you had to line the dots up for TDC compression on the rear cylinder then rotate forward past the front and one more turn so the dot lined up with the front cam to do the front. M8s are different because there is only one cam. With the dots lined up, the cylinder is 22.5 degrees past TDC on the power stroke rear cylinder. +- 22.5 degrees is fine for adjusting the valves.. It can be more.. Everyone has their magic feather/straw to get it right..