There is no screw on the back of the fork leg. It looks like oil is drained by removing assembly screw hidden by front axle. My question is; when the fork legs are at extension with wheel off and axle out and you remove the assembly screw that is holding fork leg, is it spring loaded or just under its own weight?

 

 

You'll need an extended reach 12mm hex bit socket for the lower fork leg drain plugs.
And a 19mm hex bit socket (or allen wrench) for the top end of the fork tube. Apparently a 3/4" hex bit socket works too.
These are discoveries I made when installing Axeo Legend cartridges a few months ago on my '15 Ultra Ltd.
This video is helpful:

 

I'm not 100% certain what you're asking, but I just changed the oil in my forks. I took off all the stuff attached to the lowers - wheel, fender, brakes. Then I removed the inner fairing. At that point I was able to access the one pinch bolt at the top of the legs, and the 2 at the bottom tree. The whole assembly slides right out (very quickly and will hit the floor if you're not careful). From there I used an impact to back the top cap off. Simply dump the oil out (remove and set aside the washer and spring) and cycle the damper (to get all the oil) by compressing and decompressing a few times. Then add the appropriate amount of oil. I don't recall exactly what it was, but I caught the old stuff in a measuring cup to see where I was at and compared to what was needed (based on a measurement from the top of the fork) - which equaled out.

FWIW, I used the "Screaming Eagle" heavy duty stuff.

Edit - coffee kicked in a bit more. I don't believe removing the bolts that hold the internals on to the lowers is the "approved" method of draining fork oil. There are other reasons why I personally wouldn't do it that way but YMMV. I think front to back it takes me a little over an hour with prep and clean up. It's not difficult.

 

I spoke with the people at Jims and they have a fine tool for changing fork oil and they say it will work with the Ultra Limited that has the screw buried above the axle. I sure am not going to pay 200 for the rig but I am sure I can build the thing out of fittings from Lowes. I plan on doing it when I have the tires changed. I have looked at what it takes without a tool like this and makes no sense for a shop not to have one. Granted if I was rebuilding the forks would be a different story but when you plan on some testing with a few different fork oil weights even at the best price I was quoted by an independent garage even if I bought the rig listed below (about 200ish) the third time it would be paid for. But seeing as I have built many of my own custom tools to either replicate something on the market or something that doesn't even exist on the market I feel this one will be a breeze. Any ideas on the Jims fork oil tool? Also I know I want heavier weight oil than stock. If not riding two up (me 275 lbs and wife just under 200) I do ride a bit fast. Any fork oil weight recommendations?

 

It is not that hard to just pull the forks, disassemble, clean, and change oil.

 

Exactly.

Spending hours to save minutes.

 

I am not sure where just an hour or so comes from. When you consider, the fender, both calipers, the wheel either way, the dash panel, then the top plugs that are under spring pressure (and probably an allen size I don't have) and did I forget what looks like 20 or so cable ties holding all the ABS stuff together. I used to be a motorcycle mechanic, you must be crazy faster than I am. My way, you take off one caliper, the wheel, then the bolts that hold the fork on plus you replace the washers either way. I tend to believe my way I can change fork oil 3 times or better than once the prescribed way. I will grant that it is a nuts and bolts exercise and not hard but why go through all that when it can be done by removing the axle nut, wheel, two bolts on one caliper then the one bolt each holding the fork legs on. Lets see that is a total of 1 nut, 2 bolts, and 2 screws. Unless the forks need to be rebuilt I just don't see going through all that. But that is just me. Don't get me wrong as this message is not to insult anybody, or inpune their knowledge. I will say this, in my 36 year career of working on high speed laser printers (not the table top stuff, the 20 plus footers) I was known corporation wide for figuring out how to do jobs that takes hours and many times reducing their times to minutes. Its just something I do. Or as I like to say it "if you want find the fastest way to do a job give it to a lazy man with a conscience". I tend to model myself after my dad and a friend of his that worked on nuclear munitions. He figured a way for check out not following the book saving hours. When they were about to court martial him, he proved that his was was faster and more accurate. In the end they changed procedures to his method.

 

Like I said, it took me a little over an hour with prep and clean up. I have the right tools to do the job and they are organized so no messing around there. The bike goes up on a jack, brakes come off (and hung on crash bar), tire comes off, fender comes off, inner fairing comes off, That's 15 minutes. Loosen the forks and remove - 5 minutes - it's 6 bolts to loosen. Do the oil drain and fill - 10 minutes. Forks back on - 10 minutes because I took a bathroom break. All back together - 15-20 minutes because I'm being careful and taking my time. Then clean up - maybe 5/10 minutes.

I don't have an issue with finding a better way. But how do you clear all the old fluid out if you can't compress and release the damping mechanism? And how do you know if you are putting in the correct amount of fluid if you don't measure the fluid from the top of the fork tube?

I'm just offering advice (because you asked) from having done it a few times. it's pretty easy. But if you want to do it a different way, have at it.

 

And..... I stand corrected, There is a fluid capacity listed for almost everything but the FLHTK. Considering the number of special tools needed I guess I will have to go with garage that wants to charge me $125. Since that far down go ahead and have them replace the seals too, can't be too much more as I am having the same shop replace both tires and wheel bearings at the same time. So time isn't a waste I can always use to to work on my Honda 400 or 55 Buick. I am sure some how I could get around the special tools but for possibly a one time thing just probably not worth it. No cry here just fact, I am in my 5th year of stage 3 prostate cancer. Life expectancy beyond 5 years is %35. If I live longer all the better and by the time fork oil and rebuild comes around again, I will probably have moved over to what would be a corrected Milwaukee 8, just like I did with the end of evolution of the twin cam.

So I guess we are into a new question then, what fork oil to go with as will only get one shot at it.

I run heavy, I weigh 275, wife @200, tools @10 pounds, rain gear maybe 5 to 8 pounds, then misc maybe 10 to 15 pounds. Which puts us at @500 pounds which is @35 over max. I have 13 inch Ohlins on the back with 18 clicks of damping. If I don't have the wife on I tend to ride harder and faster so the suspension seems almost dialed in but the front end. I need heavier oil but just have to gamble on how much higher weight.

Any ideas?