Not sure I understand, Hey Man. The thing you produced goes on instead of the oil filter? That would still leave the dirty oil between filter and return line in the system, wouldn't it? Best, niv

 

You put it on with a hose connected, fill the oil tank then run the bike until clean oil comes out of the hose. Remove the unit, install a new filter, run the bike to make sure oil is circulating back to the tank then fill to the correct level.

A store bought scavenger unit will cost about $70. I made mine for about $15.

 

Just to make sure I understand your approach: Since you are not removing the oil line from the tank, it would still leave the dirty oil between filter and return line in the system, wouldn't it? Or am I missing something here?
Probably just a tiny amount, but if I do the scavenging approach already, I might as well pull all the way through.
Best, niv

 

I use a synthetic which can allegedly allow you to extend change intervals but I don't. Instead I change every 5000 km / 3000 mi. With regard to scavenging, I figure the remaining pint or so of "not that old" oil that fully dilutes itself into the new stuff isn't doing any harm. Why would it when its supposed to be good for another 7000 mi anyway ?

Honestly, I don't mean to knock the practice of scavenging but, for the life of me, I can't understand its benefit.


.

 

I do on my softail slim s. God knows there is enough problems with the 110 engine? Kind of like taking vitamins, you make expensive urine but who knows, maybe your body might use some of the vitamins?

 

I agree. I would much rather replace the lines with braided lines which would have more flex.
My retainer came out with the oil line so it may be tricky snapping it back in there. Found quite a bit of rust in the inlet to the tank which I'm trying to clean away.

 

hummmm?????
do you change out your air in the tires???? you do know there is a limit on how many cycles it can be rotated inside the tire!!!
how about engines so big you could throw your hd into a cyl and spin it over and spit out a metal pancake!
these engines are fully powered 24/7 and cross over to over load more times than not and spit out 1000's of hp. these engines have a runtime expectancy of 5 years sometimes more before over haul is needed. do they get flushed, HAHAHAHA!!! the oil company will have your job for that because you are wasting time and money, if it goes down today, they want it back on line yesterday!!!
the WHOLE KEY is proper maintenance with quality products and the mfg did the R&R so they know what works.
if you want to improve, install a centrifuge. you do know honda had them on their machines till riders totally ignored cleaning them with resulting engine damage so honda went with throw away filters because most riders have trouble chewing gum while riding!
now how about NEVER pulling the drain plug, just filtration and make up. ever seen a FRANTZ system. they work and even had a FFA approval at one time till particle detectors came out. they filtered down so small that the detector could not do its job of detecting wear particles.

 

 

Just change the oil every 500 miles, and be sure to use expensive synthetic stuff.

Filter change too.

It`s cheap insurance....

 

well mr. webb
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brand spanking new, i took it out of the crate myself when dealer allowed you in

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jump ahead to present and 200k miles! did i flush??? well NOPE and she still runs at 133mph @ 7.5k redline. i just hope my evo sport will be as good. BTW, i show no mercy to them. the sport tops the clock out when dropping into forth, whoohoo sportgear and int'l gearing, + a few extra mods.
BTW: the oil filter was added at 175k miles when i added electric foot.