65 FLH Timing
Hey all, I'm trying to get my dad's 65 FLH running for the first time on over 40 years.
I was hoping that someone could refer me to a good link or thread on setting the timing? I do have the shop manual, but all honesty I'm not 100% savvy on the mechanic lingo. I know my way around the engine and what does what, but i am not a mecahnic by trade and have never worked on a panhead.
She's got a single point auto advance.
Thank all!!
I was hoping that someone could refer me to a good link or thread on setting the timing? I do have the shop manual, but all honesty I'm not 100% savvy on the mechanic lingo. I know my way around the engine and what does what, but i am not a mecahnic by trade and have never worked on a panhead.
She's got a single point auto advance.
Thank all!!
With a fuel line hose 1/4 inch and the spark plugs removed find the advance line for the engine and by blowing into the plug hole you can determine if your on the compression stroke of the front cylinder
then rotate the advance point trigger lobe - it should be the narrow one and see if the points just brake to open = close enough to start it
then rotate the advance point trigger lobe - it should be the narrow one and see if the points just brake to open = close enough to start it
With a fuel line hose 1/4 inch and the spark plugs removed find the advance line for the engine and by blowing into the plug hole you can determine if your on the compression stroke of the front cylinder
then rotate the advance point trigger lobe - it should be the narrow one and see if the points just brake to open = close enough to start it
then rotate the advance point trigger lobe - it should be the narrow one and see if the points just brake to open = close enough to start it
If it hasn't run in 40 years be prepared for some problems. Chances are the oil has all leaked by the check valve in the oil pump and has filled the crankcase. No big deal, but if you manage to start it, it will all puke out the breather hose. It will be worse if you just filled the oil tank. All the cork seals will have dried out so be prepared for the push rods to leak. The clutch plates will probably be stuck together. You can check that by pulling in the clutch and trying to kick it over. If stuck the engine will try to turn over. I imagine all the rubber oil lines will have dry rotted. Replace them one at a time so you know where they came from. The rubber rear brake line has a tendency to collapse internally from age, so be prepared to replace that along with new copper washers. The front brake is only good for holding you from rolling backwards on a hill so the rear brake has to be perfect.
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