Just wondering what the process is from raw.metal fenders to paint. Heres the deal both fenders are.raw. metal and the tank is factory vivid with the red decal under the clear. I'm wanting to flat black single stage probally rattle can it maybe compressor spray it. anyway so here's.what I think I need to do lol. Clean off the raw metal with rubbing alcohol maybe brake cleaner simple green? Then hit it with a etching primer then some rustoleum filler primer then wet sand it smooth but how? Then 3 good coats of john deere blitz black. Tank just wet sand smooth the clear coat off then filler primer wet sand smooth then blitz black it done and add a new emblem lol. Am I close or far off or just.take it to a real painter? Whow much should i expect to pay for a denim black type paint job? Thanks all!

 

You are pretty close, use Oshpo on the bare metal it will get rid of any surface rust and etch the metal for primer.
Flat paint is very forgiving so go for it, what do you have to loose.

 

OK nice so self etching primer is not needed and then a filler primer? What sand paper do I use when wetssanding primer before the flat single stage paint? Should I use a red scotch bright pad on the tank to take of the factory clear? I might use a flat rustoleum enamal ...do I wet sand that when done or leave it alone? I read JD blitz black is very very close to HD denim paint and also read it needs no primer but that seems wrong to me. This FXST is no show bike but still want it to look nice when done just like somehow HD denim paint looks so damn cool yet its so simple is the " magic" .

 

I'm on my way to work. Will have more time tonight.
Bump

 

no prob man thank you for your help!

 

Well need to say that I am not a professional painter just a hobbyist that has been painting for a long time.
Primer depends on the condition of the bare metal or paint, if the metal is clean and very straight then just a epoxy primer is fine, if it needs built up to get it smooth then a high build primers. I never use self etching primer but make sure my metal is very clean and use the Oshpo (phosphoric acid) but a good paint store can tell you if you should for your paint.
I try to keep my stock of primers to a minimum because they will dry up before you use them unless you spray every day/week.
If the tank where it is already painted, use 200 wet, then hit it with 400 before you spray it. If there is no bare spots or if you do not sand through the clear or base coat then you do not have to prime, but most guys do.
Using a scotch bright on the clear will not scuff it up enough, you want to make sure you get scratches, plus you are sanding off any waxes/oils on the surface.
Be careful sanding your primer, if it is not real dry use a scotch brites. After it dries, use 600 and all you want to do is knock off all the high spots, imperfections.
Use a good cleaner before spraying, the alcohol works great, or lacquer thinner, ect, you want to remove any oils that your finger prints leave.
If you have waxed the painted tank with any "One year waxes" then you need to be extra careful to make sure it is all gone because the silicone will cause fish eyes.
I use rustolium a lot on parts, and have pretty good luck but nothing compares to a good epoxy paint, especially on the gas tank where you will be spilling gas.
I use PPG, the Shopline, it is a economy line of paint, and have had pretty good luck with it. It is easy to spray and has a long shelf life.
I use a cheap touch up gun because for parts that is all you need otherwise you waste too much paint.
You will need a regulator or some way to get your pressure down to thirty-fifty pounds,
Paint is very expensive however it goes a long way, I buy a quart at a time.I have never used the JD paint, so really can't comment on it, the nice thing about the flat paint is that it will be easy to touch up, and for anyone just learning it is pretty forgiving.
Gloss black it the worst.
Painting is very rewarding however I must warn you if you do not have the patients to do something two or three times, forget it.
Don't be afraid to go into any automotive paint store, they are always willing to help and get new costumers, just be honest tell them what you are doing, tell them your price range, dont bother them if they are busy.
Make sure you ask prices before you have them mix it up.
I use a small paint store in Gainesville, and all the guys are very helpful.
Guess that is about it, don't be afraid to ask more questions.
We all knew nothing when we started, I could tell you stories of pretty girls that I painted their car and made them cry.
That is how you learn.

 

sounds great thank you so much for your advice and help!! I will post pics this spring when it is all completed!

 

Make sure you remove the stickers/decals completely down to bare metal on the tank or the outline will come back in the new paint. I'm not a painter, but my Dad is.

 

I am in the process of educating myself for the big job also.. One thing I'd like to add here is.... shoot the tank with a matte clear to protect your new paint from gas spills. Thats what I have read anyway.

Good luck!

 

we techs have allot of different ways of doing things but!!! the methods here some are incorrect and some are correct

let me just say the laquer thinner and rubbing alchol is not is not meant for cleaning before any solvent is applied to metal, smc, plastic, aluminum, whatever it is I use rubbing alcohol before I restick a body side molding to a car
laquer thinner is used to clean my paint guns, not meant as a precleaner before paint
here is what I do for bare metal and the prepping process
if your tank is completely stripped down to bare metal, it should be finished in 180 or 240
USING A WAX AND GREASE REMOVER wipe it down
yes a etch prime, I like duponts rattle can personally, then a good primer not rattle can primer which is enamel or laquer based which is just plain garbage
I like spies hecker primer or ppgs ncp 271 primer which is corrission resistant water proof and no need for a etch primer
the prepping process for a primed part
the initial coat of primer I usaly lay down 3 coats, is meant to fill,make bodywork show up better, and when blocked correctly will make a panle straight
180 then reprime
just 2 more coats then
then its 320,400,600,800
if you don't break through the primer no need for sealer, base coat, I let me base coat dry for 30 mins at 100 degrees, then clear not rattle can either

process for spot repairing
3 coats
320,400, then on your d.a. using a sponge pad with 800 over the entire panle

that's how I do it
that's how I just did my bike parts show cars, everything I do really
if you guys want to see mt bike when iam done ill post pics in the next few weeks