Need advice on a new shift lever on the transmission.. While doing all my other work on the bike I checked the rear shift arm fitment and there is some movement on the shift pawl shaft when fully tightened.. So now is the time to replace while everything is apart.. I'm not finding much out there for a 2013 FXDBP w/forward controls.. OEM part number 33900004..
I thought maybe Baker would make one but it appears they don't.. I did find a Milwaukee Twins at J&P that looks pretty good but not sure it's any better than the OEM.. Also found a Drag Specialties
https://deadbeatcustoms.com/drag-spe...pt-17-m-eight/
and it looks the same but does not state for forward controls.. I like that it's made from dropped forged steel so I would imagine it would last longer.. I don't plan on taking this apart again.. Any recommendations would be appreciated, thanks...

 

Is the shifter arm chewed up or the shifter pawl? My 2005 Road Glide stripped at the Canadian border, the pawl was the issue. Baker made a better shifter arm with two bolts. Not sure what is available for your application but I would give that pawl a good once over good luck.

 

I go the BETTER LEVER.......pricey but never have to think about it again.....and it's SOLID!!!!
https://www.betterlever.com/product/better-lever/

 

Buy a new lever. Mount the new lever and slightly tighten. Drill a hole between the lever and the shaft making a keyway. Loosen the lever, insert pin with red locktite and tighten to specifications. It will never strip again. I've done this many times.

I'll do it on my 2019 FLHTP when I have need to remove inner primary.

 

If it's a small amount of play, tighten it more.. You can pull the bolt and put a little lube on the threads and an AN washer to get a little more pull.. The problem stems from the arm not having enough flex. I haven't tried it but the M8 arm is designed to flex more to get a good grip on the shaft. The original arm has cast splines and does not fit the machined ones on the shaft. It will work loose.. As the splines bed the arm comes loose.. Anyone owning a big twin should check this..

 

The 19 has a better arm. All you need to do is keep it tight..

 

Both seem to be worn but mainly the arm.. I have the bushing tool for the shift Pawl assembly so I don't have to go crazy taking things apart probably would be smart to replace both we'll see what it's like when I get the new shift lever in..
38k miles on this bike

 

Put the old one back on tight zap it with a dot of weld

 

My '09 started to get slop, even after checking it regularly, went with the Baker

https://bakerdrivetrain.com/products...c9dde4c2&_ss=r

 

Thanks to every one for the suggestions.. I am gonna try the Drag lever because it dropped forged and steel and 2 it's very affordable.. I currently have a lot of money in this latest teardown.. Hopefully the quality is decent and I'll probably use loctite 680 (green) retaining compound on the splines and 272 on the bolt.. I've used 680 on main shafts and it gets harder than the Red.. Sometimes you need a good puller..