For the record, I rented a 3/4" Drive Impact with no luck whatsoever...we tried hooking up two air compressors into one to give us the 12CFM required to run the Impact...still no dice...heated the nut with propane...sprayed Pb Blaster on it....nope...Finally with a (NOT KIDDING) 7 foot cheater bar on my 3/4" Breaker Bar I was able to crack it loose. I estimate that it was torqued from the factory to just about 500 ft/lbs. I do not at this point understand how they can be so tight, I know there is a certain loctite they use.

It was cold in the garage...so any heat we tried using with the small propane torch was sucked up by the rest of the cold steel motorcycle. I'm not sure if it made any difference, but I plugged in a heat lamp and just left it on right up against the socket while it was on and over the shaft...I went in for lunch and when I came out to try it the socket and pulley etc were noticeably warms;almost hot to the touch..not friggen barely above freezeing...we then hit it with a little propane and tried the 3/4" Impact again...still no luck, BUT...7 foot cheater pipe over a 3/4" breaker bar and that worked.

There is no way I'd have been able to do this without the Pulley Locking Tool. I got it from HD for $135 plus tax...I got the socket from eBay...I DON'T at all recommend getting a cheap socket like the one described on Georges http://www.georges-garage.com . mine was $59 plus $20 Shipping too...it came with a 1/2" Drive socket and pilot bushing. The bushing works fine but I broke two 3/4" to 1/2" adapters using first a 7ft breaker bar, and then again using a 2ft breaker bar and standing and jumping on it...with no luck only two broken tools.

Today I took the broken adapter and cheap assed socket up to a muffler shop and he welded it for me for $20...so now I have the same socket setup and bushing but it now has a solid 3/4" drive for my breaker bar and that works fine. I had my neighbor assist me holding the bike on the jack and steadying it all while I used a 7 foot cheater pipe over it...I'm just guessing but I was lifting about 50 -75 lbs out at 7 ft...you do the math... Boy I smiled when I finally felt it crack loose. All said, I'd have been money ahead paying the extra for HDs Socket Wrench with 3/4 drive...( I' totally assuming HD's has a 3/4" drive) as that would make sense as to why the 1/2" Drive one is only $59.99. 1/2" Drive heer is a joke plain and simple. with a 3/4" drive Socket; then I'd never broke the two adapters and never had to have it welded, Not have had to rent the Impact Driver ($38.00) not have to have bought gas ($20) drove around all morning, and YESTERDAY I"D have had it off. And that is the rest of the story.

 

Glad you got it off, the bad part about using adapters with impacts is that they steel torque. Sometimes you have to use what you have though.

 

The best way is to buy the proper tool from George's Garage. However, if that is not an option there are other ways to skin the cat.

You can remove the top cover of the trans and engage any two gears at once; the trans will be locked.

The below image is a "shade tree" metod. Take a 3/8" bolt, remove the head and use a 2" piece placed in the groove between two pulley "teeth" so that the end of the bolt contacts the case web as shown in the photo. Secure the bolt with two large compression bands, be sure and get the bands tight to secure the bolt to that it won't move. Try a conventional approach with socket, donut and breaker bar/pipe first. If that doesn't work, hit it with a 3/4" drive impact wrench (rent an electric if you don't have a compressor).



I repeat, the best way is with the proper tool.

 

Just a FYI, If you go to the TriGlide section and look in the stickeys you will find the whole procedure with pics. We were changing quite a few on the '09 & '10 TGs.
Ive changed several myself with no problems.

 

thats pretty slick, i'll have to remember that for future use.