HDF Tech,

I've a few questions about this clutch adjustment procedure. My questions are in red.

• Back off the cable adjuster until the adjuster is fully collapsed.
• Remove the derby cover and set aside.
• Loosen the clutch adjuster lock nut two turns.
• Turn the clutch adjuster in until it seats against the clutch release. Seated means that it is touching but not pushing against the release. At this time, the clutch lever should have very little play. On my bike, there is a great amount of free play, as if the lever and cable are not pulling anything. What does this indicate?
• Back the adjuster out 1/2 to 1 full turn from seated. Repeat this several times to get all the play out.
• Lock the adjuster nut down while holding the adjuster from turning.
• Work the clutch lever several times before adjusting the free play at the cable adjuster. If there is a great amount of freeplay, what does this step do? Adjust the free play to 1/16" to 1/8" as measured at the pivot. I usually add just a little slack as a personal preference.
• Work the clutch several times to make sure operation is smooth and no binding in any part of the travel.
• Install the derby cover after topping off primary oil if needed.

 

" Turn the clutch adjuster in until it seats against the clutch release. Seated means that it is touching but not pushing against the release. At this time, the clutch lever should have very little play. On my bike, there is a great amount of free play, as if the lever and cable are not pulling anything. What does this indicate?"

I don't agree with the statement that is should have very little play... It can have a lot of play, but you will still be able to pull the lever and lift the pressure plate off the clutch pack several times to make sure the release mechanism is fully seated before setting the pushrod endplay to 3/4 turn CCW.

"Work the clutch lever several times before adjusting the free play at the cable adjuster. "

This step is unnecessary, just expand your cable adjuster to set the freeplay.

"If there is a great amount of freeplay, what does this step do? Adjust the free play to 1/16" to 1/8" as measured at the pivot. I usually add just a little slack as a personal preference."

That's fine, you can adjust the freeplay wherever works best for your clutch.
If your clutch is touchy and hooks up quick, more freeplay allows it to engage with the lever closer to the bar, giving you better control over the launch.
If you clutch is prone to dragging and is very soft, you'll want to take out as much freeplay as possible.

Patrick

 

My question

Turn the clutch adjuster in until it seats against the clutch release. Seated means that it is touching but not pushing against the release?

Can someone be more specific on this?

My understanding is i loosen jam nut then loosen adjuster, then tighten adjuster until i just feel tension, then back out adjuster 1/2 turn and tighten jam nut.

Or do i tighten adjuster all the way in then back out 1/2 turn?

 

As soon as you loosen the jam nut, the adjuster screw will be loose. Just turn it in until it contacts ( you feel tension ) , then back out 1/2 to 1 turn. Once you do it you will feel what it means. The adjuster screw will turn fairly easy until contact is made. It has to be adjusted away from the clutch release (backed off) for enough clearance so that the throwout bearing is not running all the time, and your clutch will fully engage.

 

I see LATE model on this. Mine is a 1985 FXWG, and using this method it wont work, just grinds and wont go in to gear. I use the same procedure, except I turn the adjuster in just until it touches and you can feel it on the handle, tighten the nut just as you said, and adjust the freeplay in the cable. This is with new clutches, new clutch rods, new finger, new hub, new cable, and new shell/flywheel, new compensator, and new chain. I tried using less, only 1/4 turn out, still only grinds. This is the tapered shaft 4 speed though, thats why I wonder how late this works on.

 

this is backed off only enuf til contact breaks, but if I go further, it wont go into gear

 

everything I've been posting has been 5 speed transmission with the triple ball release mechanism. When you're dealing with the finger/lever release and older style clutch, all the rules change. It sounds like you've got a clutch that is very hesitant to release. make sure all your plates are flat and do something to control clutch basket wobble like using the long roller basket to hub bearing set and/or the plastic retainer plate that keeps the hub from drifting outward when releasing the clutch. Also check the wear on the release finger itself.

 

everything is new, new finger, new kicker and everything inside actually, new clutches, new hub, new bearing, new shell/flywheel, new clutch rods and bearing washers at the finger, new nut and adjuster screw, new clutch cable, everything (rebuilding this old bike). I do everything just like you describe, but dont really back the screw out, just enough to lose contact, then everything works perfect. This is probably only because its the 4 speed with the older style thas what the 5 speed is, but, you got me close and this is a really good way to adjust it, takes all the guess work out of it.

 

How often ,if you go by mileage ,should a clutch adjustment be done? If the bike shifts good and seems to clutch good,should this be done?

Thanks for your response

The article is very informative,but this adjustment seems a little intimidating to me

 

The adjustment needs to be done whenever a component in the system is replaced or disassembled, or whenever you find yourself having clutch function issues. Beyond that, it doesn't hurt to check it every 10K mi or so, takes a whopping 5 minutes if you drag your feet.