Tranquil Trace - Exploring an Ancient Trail
#1
10-25-2010, 06:24 AM
Tranquil Trace - Exploring an Ancient Trail
The Natchez Trace Parkway is a 444 mile long tribute to an ancient roadway that has been used over the centuries by animals, native americans, and boatsman to travel from the mouth of the Mississippi to various parts north. It’s now a “linear” National Park that is perfect for a lazy motorcycle trip, beginning in Natchez, Mississippi and ending just south of Nashville, Tennessee. I left Atlanta on a Thursday afternoon with the idea of spending a few days exploring this great treasure.
Although you can start your journey from either end, Milepost 0 is in Natchez, Mississippi. Natchez is a great little city on the banks of the Mississippi River and dates back to the 18th century. It’s loaded with historic old homes and antique shops as well as a thriving restaurant and entertainment business. I stood on the riverfront walk and marveled at the size of the river. If you go there, don’t miss Pig Out Inn - some of the best beef brisket I have enjoyed in recent years.
Having come over from Atlanta on Friday, I took a campsite at Natchez State Park. It’s a good place to stay and just a few miles northeast of town. The park has a good looking lake, two campgrounds, and an abundance of deer. Just about ran over a couple of them as I explored the park around dusk.
I broke camp early the next morning, eager to get on with the day’s mileage. First stop was Emerald Mounds at MP 12, the second largest ceremonial indian mound in the country. It was stunningly large, and daunting to consider how much dirt had to be moved to build it.
My first side trip was to Windsor Ruins, near the town of Port Gibson at MP 30. This mansion, completed in 1861, burned to the ground in 1890 when a guest dropped a cigarette. The ghostly columns are all that’s left of a mansion that would cost over $3 million to build today.
The parkway from Natchez to Jackson is characterized by flat, straight, and to be honest, a little monotonous roadway. But it’s a pleasant ride devoid of traffic and at this time of year showing some signs of autumn. You just have to get your mind right to enjoy the tranquility and the history of this great roadway.
I left the parkway at MP 38 to detour up to Vicksburg National Military Park, which commemorates the Vicksburg Campaign of the Civil War. The park has a 16 mile tour road that contains over a thousand historic monuments and markers, a great museum. But the highlight of that stop was the USS Cairo, a restored Union gunboat. It’s a great sidetrip you won’t want to miss.
The parkway approaches Jackson, Mississippi at about MP 90, skirting the edge of town. On the north end is the Ross Barnett Reservoir, which makes a nice view for several miles.
Between Jackson and Tupelo, Mississippi, the parkway passes through mostly pine forest, with hardwood stands occurring at the creeks. There are an abundance of stops that can be made all along the way - historic sites, nature exhibits, quiet walkways - just take your pick, get off the bike often, and enjoy life without traffic. On the weekend that I visited, traffic was very light, and I often had nobody within sight ahead of me. I stopped at French Camp to look at the restored town there.
I camped at Trace State Park just west of Tupelo for the night and went into town for a steak that night. The gate at the park closes at 10pm, so that gave me some time to look around Tupelo. Lots to see there, including the birthplace of Elvis Presley and the official Information Center for the Natchez Trace Parkway. Stay tuned.... second day coming up!
Although you can start your journey from either end, Milepost 0 is in Natchez, Mississippi. Natchez is a great little city on the banks of the Mississippi River and dates back to the 18th century. It’s loaded with historic old homes and antique shops as well as a thriving restaurant and entertainment business. I stood on the riverfront walk and marveled at the size of the river. If you go there, don’t miss Pig Out Inn - some of the best beef brisket I have enjoyed in recent years.
Having come over from Atlanta on Friday, I took a campsite at Natchez State Park. It’s a good place to stay and just a few miles northeast of town. The park has a good looking lake, two campgrounds, and an abundance of deer. Just about ran over a couple of them as I explored the park around dusk.
I broke camp early the next morning, eager to get on with the day’s mileage. First stop was Emerald Mounds at MP 12, the second largest ceremonial indian mound in the country. It was stunningly large, and daunting to consider how much dirt had to be moved to build it.
My first side trip was to Windsor Ruins, near the town of Port Gibson at MP 30. This mansion, completed in 1861, burned to the ground in 1890 when a guest dropped a cigarette. The ghostly columns are all that’s left of a mansion that would cost over $3 million to build today.
The parkway from Natchez to Jackson is characterized by flat, straight, and to be honest, a little monotonous roadway. But it’s a pleasant ride devoid of traffic and at this time of year showing some signs of autumn. You just have to get your mind right to enjoy the tranquility and the history of this great roadway.
I left the parkway at MP 38 to detour up to Vicksburg National Military Park, which commemorates the Vicksburg Campaign of the Civil War. The park has a 16 mile tour road that contains over a thousand historic monuments and markers, a great museum. But the highlight of that stop was the USS Cairo, a restored Union gunboat. It’s a great sidetrip you won’t want to miss.
The parkway approaches Jackson, Mississippi at about MP 90, skirting the edge of town. On the north end is the Ross Barnett Reservoir, which makes a nice view for several miles.
Between Jackson and Tupelo, Mississippi, the parkway passes through mostly pine forest, with hardwood stands occurring at the creeks. There are an abundance of stops that can be made all along the way - historic sites, nature exhibits, quiet walkways - just take your pick, get off the bike often, and enjoy life without traffic. On the weekend that I visited, traffic was very light, and I often had nobody within sight ahead of me. I stopped at French Camp to look at the restored town there.
I camped at Trace State Park just west of Tupelo for the night and went into town for a steak that night. The gate at the park closes at 10pm, so that gave me some time to look around Tupelo. Lots to see there, including the birthplace of Elvis Presley and the official Information Center for the Natchez Trace Parkway. Stay tuned.... second day coming up!
#2
10-25-2010, 06:36 AM
Best news of all for a weary traveler - there is a Starbucks a few blocks from the entrance to the parkway in Tupelo, so the next morning I stopped for a cup of coffee and conversation with a half dozen other motorcyclists who were starting their day as well. Always great to share experiences with other bikers!
The parkway north of Tupelo starts getting interesting, with a few more curves and some elevation changes. On this brisk, sunny morning it was great to see more autumn leaves and the many rivers and lakes. I stopped at Pharr Mounds at MP 286 and wondered what life was like there two thousand years ago.
The parkway leaves Mississippi at MP 309 for a 30 mile section through Alabama. This is a beautiful area, with mountain foothills, clear rivers, and open vistas. I especially enjoyed the bridge over the Tennessee River at Colbert Ferry.
At MP 343, the parkway leaves Alabama and enters Tennessee. At this point, I’m about 100 miles from the northern terminus and the scenery is changing significantly. The leaves were in their autumn finest, the air was crisp, and it felt great to be on the bike away from the job.
There is a 2.5 mile roadway that follows the original Trace route that is found at MP 376. Although the surface is not paved, it is hard-packed gravel and easy for motorcycles. Don’t miss this great sidetrip to get an idea of what the early travelers experienced.
The Meriwether Lewis memorial is at MP 386 and is worth a stop. Lewis, commander of the famous Lewis and Clark expedition was either shot or committed suicide on October 10, 1809 near this spot. His death remains a mystery even today. There is camping there, a memorial statue, and bits of the old Trace roadway that can be hiked.
And at MP 444 my journey up the Natchez Trace Parkway was complete. The Double-Arch Bridge a few miles south of the terminus is a fitting tribute to this great roadway.
The parkway north of Tupelo starts getting interesting, with a few more curves and some elevation changes. On this brisk, sunny morning it was great to see more autumn leaves and the many rivers and lakes. I stopped at Pharr Mounds at MP 286 and wondered what life was like there two thousand years ago.
The parkway leaves Mississippi at MP 309 for a 30 mile section through Alabama. This is a beautiful area, with mountain foothills, clear rivers, and open vistas. I especially enjoyed the bridge over the Tennessee River at Colbert Ferry.
At MP 343, the parkway leaves Alabama and enters Tennessee. At this point, I’m about 100 miles from the northern terminus and the scenery is changing significantly. The leaves were in their autumn finest, the air was crisp, and it felt great to be on the bike away from the job.
There is a 2.5 mile roadway that follows the original Trace route that is found at MP 376. Although the surface is not paved, it is hard-packed gravel and easy for motorcycles. Don’t miss this great sidetrip to get an idea of what the early travelers experienced.
The Meriwether Lewis memorial is at MP 386 and is worth a stop. Lewis, commander of the famous Lewis and Clark expedition was either shot or committed suicide on October 10, 1809 near this spot. His death remains a mystery even today. There is camping there, a memorial statue, and bits of the old Trace roadway that can be hiked.
And at MP 444 my journey up the Natchez Trace Parkway was complete. The Double-Arch Bridge a few miles south of the terminus is a fitting tribute to this great roadway.
#3
10-25-2010, 07:35 AM
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Pastor John,
Great write up! I've toured the Trace 3 times, but my last trip in August was the first time I was able to do the entire route, the previous two times I picked it up about midpoint and rode into Natchez.
It is one of my favorite rides, it's hard to be stressed when you're on the Trace. You did it right, take your time, explore the stops and enjoy the ride.
One bit of caution, watch out for the deer! They are plentiful, and hard to see at dusk.
Great write up! I've toured the Trace 3 times, but my last trip in August was the first time I was able to do the entire route, the previous two times I picked it up about midpoint and rode into Natchez.
It is one of my favorite rides, it's hard to be stressed when you're on the Trace. You did it right, take your time, explore the stops and enjoy the ride.
One bit of caution, watch out for the deer! They are plentiful, and hard to see at dusk.
#4
10-25-2010, 12:18 PM
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#6
10-25-2010, 04:58 PM
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This made the rounds here a couple years ago...good illustration of the deer hazards on the Trace.
At 10:39am Nov 28 I nailed my first buck of the season with my 2005 Harley-Davidson Electra-Glide at mile marker 54 on the Natchez Trace Parkway. Nine other motorcycle riders and I were on our annual Natchez Trace weekend after Thanksgiving Run to Nashville, TN. I was the 7th bike from the point bike. It was raining moderately. I never saw it! I did hear a thunderous crash and saw a flash of light. I remember tumbling, spinning, and rolling for a long, long time, finally stopping about 20 feet from the Harley. I was dazed. What happened? From the ravine where I laid, I heard voices from the road above. The tail biker was calling on his CB to the other riders yelling there were 2 bikers down. Two? Several of my co-riders were shouting to me to lay still and don't move. Semi dazed, I laid there for about 3 minutes trying to figure what had occurred and trying to determine the extent of my injuries.
I then decided to get up. I seemed ok. My helmet had been ripped off sometime during the tumbling and was about 15 feet away, with chin strap still buckled. The bike looked disentegrated. I thought to myself am I one of those persons who have had an "out of body experience"? Was I seeing this after I was dead? How could I have survived this? I shouted I was ok. My friends kept asking if I were ok. I replied each time " I think I'm ok". I asked what did I hit? I heard someone yell, "a deer". When I got up to the road bed from the ravine, I saw a deer thrashing around in the road. A young man who has been deer hunting, stopped. He took his rifle and shot the deer in the head right in the road.
It was then I learned that Joey, the rider behind me had seconds after, hit the same deer lying in the road and he went down. His bike was slightly damaged and he received very minor road rash.
My personal belongings and broken parts of the bike were strewn along a long & wide swath from the road to the bike.Deep scrapes were in the asphalt at the point of impact. A National Park Ranger arrived. Am ambulance and a wrecker were radioed in by the Ranger. I assured my buddies I was going to be ok and urged them to continue on. I was transported by ambulance to the Port Gibson, MS hospital where it was determined I had fractured the tip of the radius, large bone in the forearm. This fracture is at the wrist. Additionally, I had several cuts & bruises about the face, as if I'd been worked over by Mike Tyson. The Ranger came to the hospital to complete the accident report. The Ranger told me from the point of impact to the bike location was 227 feet. The deer was 300 feet from point of impact. This morning I was slow to arise and felt aches in many places such as shoulders, legs & hip. A 63 year old body doesn't do as well as a younger body.
I then decided to get up. I seemed ok. My helmet had been ripped off sometime during the tumbling and was about 15 feet away, with chin strap still buckled. The bike looked disentegrated. I thought to myself am I one of those persons who have had an "out of body experience"? Was I seeing this after I was dead? How could I have survived this? I shouted I was ok. My friends kept asking if I were ok. I replied each time " I think I'm ok". I asked what did I hit? I heard someone yell, "a deer". When I got up to the road bed from the ravine, I saw a deer thrashing around in the road. A young man who has been deer hunting, stopped. He took his rifle and shot the deer in the head right in the road.
It was then I learned that Joey, the rider behind me had seconds after, hit the same deer lying in the road and he went down. His bike was slightly damaged and he received very minor road rash.
My personal belongings and broken parts of the bike were strewn along a long & wide swath from the road to the bike.Deep scrapes were in the asphalt at the point of impact. A National Park Ranger arrived. Am ambulance and a wrecker were radioed in by the Ranger. I assured my buddies I was going to be ok and urged them to continue on. I was transported by ambulance to the Port Gibson, MS hospital where it was determined I had fractured the tip of the radius, large bone in the forearm. This fracture is at the wrist. Additionally, I had several cuts & bruises about the face, as if I'd been worked over by Mike Tyson. The Ranger came to the hospital to complete the accident report. The Ranger told me from the point of impact to the bike location was 227 feet. The deer was 300 feet from point of impact. This morning I was slow to arise and felt aches in many places such as shoulders, legs & hip. A 63 year old body doesn't do as well as a younger body.
Last edited by DeadBirdDog; 10-25-2010 at 05:03 PM.
#7
10-25-2010, 06:27 PM
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#8
10-26-2010, 03:50 AM
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Thank you very much for the great pics...makes me want to start packing for a trip..I have rode part of the Tennessee trace,the wife got bored..I,ll go back and do it myself.
#9
10-26-2010, 04:03 AM
Road Warrior
Good write up John. Yep I rode the whole Trace a few years ago, really enjoyed it and will certainly do it again. The other caution for others is the speed limit, it is usually 50 sometimes 40 and they are very serious about it. I came across a park service/state police check point about half way through the ride, checking licenses etc. I hadn't seen a car for at least an hour before that.
#10
10-26-2010, 06:24 AM
Whew! DeadBirdDog's write-up about hitting the deer will slow a guy down, that's for sure! And he (and others) are right - deer are all over the place over there! Early mornings and evenings are where you see most of them, and it's not uncommon to see five or six grazing at the side of the road as you pass by. Definitely need to be on your toes and keep the speed down!