Lower tree forging hallmark may be MF (M over F) representing Modern Drop Forge? I don’t know what A indicates but 13 may be a die number? Anti-theft ID having only one letter is intriguing because normally for 1978 I would have expected two. Info I have indicates Z was one of five letters used for 1973 lower trees which would explain why double letters were apparently first used for 1974. But I remember your 75FXE only had one letter (H) so I’ll have to watch for more single-letter examples like these for mid-70s and later.
Top tree has casting number 45740-62A. I don’t know which company is represented by casting hallmark UF. I’ve also seen it on some, not all, late-model 45ci Flathead crankcases, 45ci Flathead gear covers and 45ci Flathead trans cases. Hard to tell if the lone number is 9 or 6 because it has no horizontal line to indicate which way is up. It may be an inspector mark? Eric
When I got the bike up on the rack I noticed that the bolt holding the rear wheel in place seemed to be digging into the swingarm.
Not as pronounced on the left side .
Pulled the swingarm bolt and the right side bearing was toast
New Timken bearings and races
Repairs done by my machinist (gets a rattlecan finish to cover it on the repaired section)
Getting ready to disassemble the shocks...
...with homemade shock tool (just clutch plates, all thread, nuts and washers)
Some assembly required. Used steel wool and a wire brush on the end of a drill to clean the chrome and get rid of the surface rust (especially on the inside of the springs).
IDK...as ya don't show me the Tabs, you have... I'm talking about the single Board mount on the right side lower frame..
Sorry about that, I was referring to the tab with 2 holes for the forward controls. Pic doesn't show the mounting tabs buy they are definitely factory.
As I stated, when I bought the bike it was fairly obvious that it sat out in some water at some point. The rear wheel was wasted.
One whole section (more to the left but not pictured) was completely rusted and the spokes and nipples had actually fused together from the rust. And taking a wire wheel to the risted section after removing the spokes made me come to realize this rim was toast. What I was curious about tho was the markings on it "Firestone". After reading Palmer's guide (he actually some information re: post 64 bikes in some sections), I discovered that Firestone actually manufactured HD 16 inch rims as an aftermarket supplier.
So the first truly not correct for the year part is the rear rim; it is actually for 1981 and later but will fit the earlier year models. (Got a love it...made in Italy. But makes sense since they were owned by AMF).
Also could not find zinc plated spokes anywhere other than Teds (V-Twin), so that is what I went with.
Front wheel was easier task because the hub, rim and spokes were not beat to hell.
Shovel model spokes have a triangle stampled on the end of them (for lack of a better term). Aftermarket spokes would have been cheaper but once laced, it would have been obvious to see they were not OEM. With that in mind I spent the money to have them replated (zinc finish as well).
The spokes ends are not as readily visible on the rear with the sprocket and brakes components basically covering things up.
I spoked the front and rear, (the front was really difficult) and took both to Kelly Moss in San Jose. Hez been doing it forever (at east early 70s) and his prices are for the working man. If he is not busy you can stay while he does his magic. Because he and I covered a lot of the same turf over the years, it is alway a 2-3 hr conversation while he works. He is the only person I trust enough to do the work correctly.
I’m new around here but in the midst of putting a ‘76 FXE back on the road. Very similar looking projects but you’re further ahead than me. My question is: what’s this steam cleaning you mentioned for the frame? I’m assuming it’s different than power washing? Did you paint after? My frame and lower engine are a mess of old oil, grease, gravel and, for all I know, blood. I like the idea of starting with a clean frame....
I’m new around here but in the midst of putting a ‘76 FXE back on the road. Very similar looking projects but you’re further ahead than me. My question is: what’s this steam cleaning you mentioned for the frame? I’m assuming it’s different than power washing? Did you paint after? My frame and lower engine are a mess of old oil, grease, gravel and, for all I know, blood. I like the idea of starting with a clean frame....
Steam cleaning is what places will do for car engines and under frames of vehicles. Been using the same place since the 70s. Does a real nice job of getting all the years of crud off without drowning parts.
Re: painting. I am more into preserving what is there rather than trying to do a makeover. As the statement goes...it can only be original once. With that in mind my last 2 projects have been FXEs and both were taken apart and put back together with the intent of keeping them original as possible. I keep a list of what was done (written and picture). It helped sell the 75 FXE immediately. Haven't yet decided what the end result will be on the 78 FXE.
I think that if you intend to make your bike a custom then repaint is in order (paint or powdercoat). I would take the frame to a place that will sandblast/beadblast your parts and then refinish to your choosing.My 49 EL was a basket case and there was no way in heck to preserve what was there, so I made the decision to refinish it and get it as close to factory stock as I could afford. I found the correct paint for the frame, fenders and tanks. Seen folks take original paint bikes and redo them and call them a restoration (one of the most overused words to date). In doing so they have lost about a third of the value of the bike.
Comes down to a personal decision and what your end plan is. Not a condemnation of what others choose, just my own observation and the view of an old guy who has been around old iron most of his life (thanks to my pop).
01-20-2019, 09:16 AM
