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  #11  
Old 02-19-2019, 06:03 PM
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The timing will retard over time as the "wear block" rubs on the dist cam.
 
  #12  
Old 02-19-2019, 06:47 PM
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the wear on the rubbing block if you never re set the timing - but re setting the starting location at the front of the point brake gives you the correct start of initial timing NO - the difference is in the slope of the points as it relates to timing only sees the first part when it brakes to fire the coil - the rest is the dwell - the amount of time they are open

I am not getting how the timing is retarded as a result of rubbing block wear

the only thing I can get from this is the cam shaft and the points are out of phase with one another and its very small not even 1 degree
 
  #13  
Old 02-19-2019, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 1981 suprglide
compu-fire 20100 ignition dual fire is hard to beat and
easy to install use the same mechanical advance and
will run for years and dude that is one sweet shovel
Thanks man. I put a ton of work in that thing.
 
  #14  
Old 02-19-2019, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by johnjzjz
its not better they no longer have tungsten coating on the tips like we had when cars were still using points

and 6 volt is 1.5 ohms in a coil just because some of us have collections of 6 volt machines

the dyna trigger uses the came coil as a point ignition at 5 ohms
so do I need a new coil? Trying to make sense of this. Thanks for the reply.
 
  #15  
Old 02-19-2019, 08:56 PM
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I had someone tell me a while back that points are usually easier to start on a kick only. I have no experience with points but I'm not afraid to dive into it with a little guidance. The kits are cheap and if that's all I need then I'll go for it. I'm not running breakers. No signals. Just running lights and breaks. Ignition is an on off toggle.
 
  #16  
Old 02-19-2019, 08:59 PM
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couple better pix.
 
  #17  
Old 02-19-2019, 09:04 PM
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I did not see that you posted the ohms reading on the coil you already have -

that reading will answer your question what way to go with what you have

remove both wires on the coil then take the reading and Post it
 
  #18  
Old 02-19-2019, 10:37 PM
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I will try this one more time ...time...argh argh
If the dwell is set, over time the gap gets narrower, this is esp more noticeable in a car (more miles usually)
As the wear block is moved by the cam and lifts the points it slowly becomes worn -less and less gap-
Which means the points open latter and the timing becomes more retarded.
Yes you can compensate for it by resetting the dwell (gap)
If I remember correctly I went coast to coast on the sporty without touching the points ..a long long time ago
.Points are not as high maintenance as some may think them to be.
 
  #19  
Old 02-20-2019, 06:21 AM
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the points rubbing block fixed square is way softer then the metal cog for lack of a better word and even with out point grease back in the day 8 cylinder distributors had 8 segments not two and 100,000 miles later the dwell was spot on

if wear is a real issue then the dwell would become shorter NO 6ou would not be able to achieve 30 degrees - as the open and closing time would be less and I don't see that with 8 cylinder cars even with way over 100,000 miles and detectable dwell narrowing

you see this how did you measure it to see it
 
  #20  
Old 02-20-2019, 06:43 AM
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You may measure it in theory anyway you want.
I was there.
I know points will change in dwell over time due to the cam and lift block.
Beers
 


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