I recently undertook the task of knocking the cob webs off my fathers old shovel, it is a kickstart only with a Lucas capacitor (battery eliminator). got the the beast to start and run perfectly fine only on 12V charge or hill bump starting (DC current and High RPM), would not kick start(Low RPM/AC current). So after trial, error and money down the drain we determined that the voltage regulator is fried, so now I am asking which regulator is the correct one for this specific bike based upon the stator size which I have no idea it is (any help on that would be much appreciated) and also how to determine which voltage regulator is a "shunt" regulator as I am told that is very important for the shunt action allows the low rpm (kick starting) to drop charge through the system causing spark.


P.S. Batteries are for the weak.

 

Batteries are for the weak... count me in... I'll be riding away while you are Dinking with yer "eliminator"...
I have Never had one work with a Harley... one Ironhead would sort of work... but I gave up on that also!!!
Good Luck...

 

I'm just going to watch this one...... where did I set my coffee?

 

youll be giving up your whole life, next.

 

Not really, been there did that long ago, rode brits for a decade, built more rusted bucket broke *** basket case harleys than I care to remember and never saw one of those eliminator gizmos work worth a fuq without a small battery in the system somewhere.

Talk **** to somebody who don't know no better son...

 

I was cleaning up today in the shop an area I almost never get to straighten up - will I found one of those - its like a shotgun shell with 3 wires - think a blue - red and black

I had it on an iron sporty to help excite the generator that had a mag - but I never bought into a shove alt would get me home in the middle of the night with that sort of gizmo

 

Lithium batteries are much smaller then anything available back when your old man setup that bike. I would suggest looking into a spot to hide a mini lithium and solve multiple problems at the same time. DK Customs a sponsor of this site and an all around good guy sells them and probably could talk you through what you need for your application. Good luck.

 

BTW if one of Y'all has one of them Mighty Max Boxes... give me a shout, They will work like a damn on a Brit!!!!BTDT

 

Everybody I knew that had one ran a magneto on a genny lower and even then most at some point ended putting a little dirt bike battery in there somewhere. Never did see an alternator shovel work with one without a battery in it.

 

If it's the 4 wire stator (2 phase) that one is 15 amp. The 2 wire stator (single phase) would be 22 amps.

There is a shunt circuit in the standard regulator, but it's a transistor and a thermistor - part of the electronics - has nothing to do with the actual alternator output. But therein lies a problem with a "no battery" setup. The electronic regulators can't hold up for long without having the constant load of a battery, till they burn out. If it's a 4 wire stator, you'll need to change it to a 2 wire and order a Cycle Electric part# CE-204NB regulator that's designed for a no battery setup. (I honestly don't know what's different inside that regulator, I never asked them)

Or if its still the 4 wire stator, get a bridge rectifier and Zener diode w/heat sink for a older model Triumph and go real old skool. But carry lots of spare ignition condensers if you go that route - don't ask me how I know...

The "battery eliminator" is nothing more than a high storage capacitor (condenser) that keeps the lights from flickering at low rpms. They can and will go bad with age, even if they've never been used. I'd recommend you check it. If the alternator output is good and the ignition condenser is good, it should spark with or without the battery eliminator. Note: I said "spark" - made no mention of "start"

Happy Motoring.....