Chasing down a few more issues on the 1979 FXE before the warm weather comes to stay.

Just changed the pushrod tube seals and decided to also take out the rods and solid lifters, cleaned everything, and put it back in proper adjustment. One or two of the pushrods were noticeably off when I first slid the covers up.

Since putting everything back, the bike developed more popping out of the exhaust on deceleration and occasionally sneezing out of the carb. There's also a spot on the throttle at the neighborhood/parking lot speed where the bike wants to lurch and pop a lot more. At higher speed it runs very well.

Here's what I've tried:

• Got some Evo exhaust gaskets and put them on, as others have suggested this can help resolve shovel exhaust leaks
• New fuel line, fuel filter, spark plug cables, and new spark plugs. Plugs gapped at .40
• Did all the intake leak tests-- manifold seems pretty airtight
• Double and triple checked the pushrod adjustment. No up and down play + spins with minimal drag at the heel of the cam; no movement or spin at the top of the lobe of the cam
• Have repeatedly adjusted the carb air/fuel mixture, and accelerator pump (S&S Super E)
• Checked the coil-- it's a 5 ohm coil reading 8.5 ohms
• Static timed the Dyna S ignition with a test light. Rode for a while with no change in the symptoms mentioned
  • After static timing didn't change anything, a few days later I got the bike nice and hot and adjusted the timing by hand, retarding and advancing by hand with the engine idling. This seems to have increased the performance at higher speed a bit, and may have even improved idle some, but didn't change the problem described in the post. Runs great but has started kicking back at me now, so I might have the timing a little too advanced

At this point it seems like I've ruled a bunch of stuff out and am thinking it could just be that one of the jets in the S&S Super E needs to be sized up. It's weird that the problem with exhaust popping and carb sneezing started after pulling the pushrods and lifters out though-- especially because they are much better adjusted now than they were before I took them out.

Any ideas or is it time to play the carb jetting game? Also want to double-check that it's okay for a 5 ohm coil to read somewhat higher, e.g., 8.5 ohms.

 

Check more carefully for intake manifold leaks... then...Tune, and Shift down!!!

 

I'd pull the plugs and see if that are black from running too rich. If they are, then I'd look at the carb and go from there. Also check that the enrichener is fully closing when the lever is pushed down. If it's not, it will run very rich.

The enrichener is only used for starting and should be closed (turned off) once the engine cranks and starts.

Paul

 

On the E, adjust the accel pump to where the it's almost off, you don't want to see gas spray when you barely move the throttle. Check the mixture screw, should be 1 and a 1/2 turns out from lightly seated + or - an 1/8 turn, shovels like it a hair on the fat side. It's less than this the jets too big, more than 2 turns out its too lean.

They are a very simple carb to tune.

I'd start with fresh plugs, shovels don't like them once they've been sooted up no matter how well you clean them, get some NGK's or autolites, champion plugs aren't what they used to be.

 

wow every since I had my shovel it pop at low speeds i think that's normal for shovel it has to charge that battery far as coils i use to try run a 5 olm it run for a while but then it started running on one cylinder changed to 3-ohm problem went away..

 

5 ohm coils are for points and a few aftermarket ignitions like the Dyna S or it's clones. 3 ohm for factory and most replacement all electronic systems. 81 was stock 3 ohm coil.

 

Thanks all for the suggestions so far.

Plugs I've been running are NGK BPR5ES, and they are both a nice light tan. Enrichener only gets used to start the bike and the plunger does fully close when the lever is turned down.

Any raised eyebrows over the coil testing 8.5 ohms? Ignition is a Dyna S so the 5 ohm coil is what I need, but wondering if that is testing a little too high. The coil is a cheap no-name replacement off Amazon bought in a hurry after the last one died.

Also-- are there suggestions for a high temp sealant to use with the exhaust gaskets? My heads are from the factory with the one bolt flange and I dont trust it's doing the job alone, even with the Evo gaskets.

The bike is running very well overall, but I absolutely cannot stand obnoxious popping going down hills, while decelerating, or prowling in and out of the neighborhood. I demand a warm uninterrupted rumble

 

If the plugs are good, then yes, I would go through the ignition. If you have a coil to test with, that would be a good start. TZ B above listed the correct ohms needed for different systems that is helpful.

Paul

 

8.5 on the coil is high could cause goofiness on the output side like weak spark and I love Permatex Ultra gray for shovel exhaust sealing. Run a wire wheel in a drill to clean out the head port and the tip of the pipe, a light smear both sides of the gasket and the inside of the head port. Install the pipe making sure it's on square and tight, wipe off the extra and let sit overnight. You can lose the head bolt and the pipe will stay put, doesn't stink forever and no orange spouge like you see on other machines. I also recommend using studs in the heads not bolts.

Trick with shovel pipes is working them to get them parallel and square so when you tighten the head side down it doesn't pull the rear mount out or you don't have to pull it in tightening the rear mount. Get this right by working the rear support arm either by tweaking it or shimming to the frame. You can pick my shovel up by the pipes and they don't flex.

 

Took the pipes off yesterday and cleaned the pipe ends and head ports with a wire brush and rubbing alcohol, then applied the high temp Permatex as suggested above. When I took off the gaskets for cleaning there was black sooty blow-by where the exhaust was leaking, so this needed to be done regardless. Rear pip is pretty square, the front one is trickier to line up perfectly. Maybe the permatex will be forgiving.

Going to ride it for a day or two and see what changes. Will get a more accurate load test of the battery once it's been off the tender for a few rides.

Next thing to try sounds like a new dyna coil, might do that regardless since this one is testing so high