thanks gonna check it tonight.. again.

 

aftermarket brand new. Old electronic ignition didn't work. I got the bike 6 months ago and have been slowly working on it. Just finished the paint and seat a couple weeks ago.

 

Here is the foolproof way to find your timing mark:

Take plugs out and remove the timing plug.
Pull off the primary cover so you can rotate the motor and look in the timing hole at the same time.
Rotate motor anti clockwise, using the crankshaft nut as you look at it from the primary side of the bike (which is where you should be)
Turn motor until you have seen all three timing marks, draw pictures of them in the order they appear, they should appear from the righthand side of the hole (rear of motor)
Then you rotate the motor anticlockwise until the first of the marks appears (the actual mark will vary according to year and model)
This first mark is your timing mark, the middle one is usually 22 degrees BTDC and is the California timing mark, the last one is your TDC and you can verify this with a screwdriver down the front sparkplug hole.

Then you raise the pushrod towers (slide the clip out and push the bottom towers up so you can spin the pushrods), rotate the motor until both front pushrods will spin with the front cylinder at TDC
Then back the motor off CLOCKWISE when looking from the primary side until you see your previously identified timing mark.
Then you turn the advance unit cam all the way and adjust so the points just open when it is all the way clockwise (the advance unit points cam that is)

This works every time.

Some electronic units are static timed at TDC but the mark identification process will still work as you are identifying all three marks.

This way you don't need to worry about the correct timing marks for your year as you never know what has been changed in the motor over the years.

 

Well if it's new and hasn't been run yet, if you can try and compare the cam with an original one. I once had that problem quit a while ago and the after market one was different. the small cam lobe was not in the same position in relation to the slot that slides down on to the flyweights it was off visibly, but I was able to extend out the slots in the plate some more to rotate it around to time it, it's worth checking if you can.

 

After 3 more times I got it close. Bike starts everything and runs ok. If I kill the enrichment it slowly dies. Thats probably just carb tuning but it does cough out the carb occasionally. Sprayed carb cleaner to spot any intake leaks but all was good. Exhaust has a leak though. These copper seals suck. Anyway I will do a little more tweaking later on. I may have to pull the motor anyways. Looks like there's a few oil leaks to manage. This bike hasn't ran in over 5-6 years. I just got my hands on it 6 months ago and this is the first time I've been able to run it.

 

They need lots of patients then at some point you get it and it starts to become what you would like it to be ——- for a while

the while could last couple years tho

staying with it will get you the machine you hoped for but the beginning is all about un doing the morons ideas who worked on it to pull it to the spot it’s in now

 

Thats so true. Thanks for the encouragement. Talked to local inde and he suggested just pulling it to give it a look. Cleaning everything and replacing gaskets. Maybe honing and new rings with a good valve lap. I'm not interested in a high HP shovel. I've got my roadglide for everyday. I've just always loved shovels.

 

Be careful about talking about your late model bike on this forum, there is a Big Shot here that will tell you to go away and you do not belong if you own one of each. LOL

 

Using the little lobe tool to advance the weights when trying to static time it ? Don't it will never be right. Be sure the advance weights are in good condition also, most overlooked part on those machines.

 

haha. Ok. Thanks for the warning.